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996 neglected, time for some love & maintenance

You need to be careful with helicoils, some of them have short thread lengths, make sure you get them long enough.

Also, if you haven't used them before, practice on some scrap first. It's quite straightforward but you don't want to mess up your calipers!
 
foz001 said:
GOOD STUFF, ABOUT TO EMBARK ON A SIMILAR PROJECT ON MY 4S, RE HELICOILS, ARE THEY ALL MUCH OF A MUCHNESS AS EBAY IS FULL OF CHEAP REPAIR KITS?

Oh sorry for shouting!!

The cheap kits do do the job, I have a couple of sets and luckily I already had a M10 x 1mm set for the caliper. As said it is best to practice with one first but as long as you take your time they are actually really easy to do. With a caliper you need to be careful you don't drill any deeper than the chamfer at the bottom of the hole or you could ruin the caliper.
 
Someone helpfully snapped off 2 bleed nipples so I need to get them all off and see whats what!
 
I have a local machine shop who can get them out, need to make sure my timings are ok as i don't want the car up on the ramp indefinitely!
 
Front end is back together and will fit the front bumper once its returned to the floor.

The R send is now in the air and I am tasked with removing the gearbox and checking the rear end for rust now that the front end is sealed.

I got it up on the ramps and stands and after removing a few of the underside struts I removed the plastic arch liners and found the underseal had blown at one point on the nearside behind the plastic liner.

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I feared the worst and got heavy handed with a screwdriver and ended up going around the whole arch with it removing underseal that was loose. It came off where there was surface rust but when getting to just above the silencer I put the screwdriver through. Gutted... This hole is smaller than my little finger though.

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The front of the arch had a couple of small perforations but I couldn't get the screwdriver through.

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All of this will get welded and sealed over the next few days and the grommets have all been removed ready for the waxoyl to be pumped in.

The offside arch is in strangely perfect condition.
 
Good luck Infrasilver.

Now is the right time to sort these cars from getting any worse with rust I reckon.

Engine failures have got rid on a lot, but the next few years could see a more conventional "classic car" enemy taking hold and further diminishing numbers.
 
:thumb: it's very minor and for 17 years old it isn't too bad at all.

Any that get unchecked in the next few years will be the ones we lose to rot. The thing is, even some of the high values 996's can succumb to this if not kept in the dry at all times.
 
For the gearbox removal I made up a cradle to rest the rear (front) of the engine on once the engine mounts had been lowered, I usually just put a jack under the engine but it does get in the way when trying to get the box off. This should make the job easier.

This is a similar design to the Porsche tool and also stops the two rear subframe gaps closing in, which makes it hard to remove and fit the central alloy brace. All made from Unitstrut = adult Mechano.

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Everything is now removed apart from the driveshafts, gear linkage cables and slave cylinder, then the gearbox will be on the deck.
 
infrasilver said:
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All of this will get welded and sealed over the next few days and the grommets have all been removed ready for the waxoyl to be pumped in.

The offside arch is in strangely perfect condition.

Do remove the remaining plug on the inner sill part above where the brace bolts up. Bottom right in your pic.

Mine was worst in there, but I scraped around and it was solid.

Also bad on the ends of the sills under the plastic spat and my jack points covered in surface rust.

My offside was also much better than near side. Must be the chamber of the road, less spray perhaps?
 
I'm going to try to pull all the grommets I can see and waxoyl where I can, I didn't see the one I think you're referring to until I saw my picture and the flash highlighted it. Jacking points are rusty but solid so will get POR15 in/on them.

I saw someone mention their condensers were worse on the N/S, could have been yourself, it does sort of make sense that side could be worse due to this.
 
The gearbox is off and on the deck, it was an easy removal for once, sometimes it takes a bit of wrestling to get it away from the engine.

Using my home made gearbox jacking plate it came out smoothly.

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I have also removed the clutch cover and release bearing and found the reason it is very squealy. The edges of the bearing has cut into the clutch cover enough for the the cover fingers to go under the face of the bearing, thus chewing up the inside of the bearing somewhat and cutting the end off a couple of fingers.

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The twisted metal fell out of the bellhousing when I split the gearbox from the engine.

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I'm glad I took the car off the road when I did as it was due at any time to push the whole bearing through the clutch cover fingers.

This bearing was a replacement that was supposed to be an Audi bearing but the same part but slightly cheaper than the Porsche part. I have since realised it is not the same part and the face of the bearing is smaller, beware of this bearing when looking to replace.

You can see the new Porsche bearing (left) against the Audi bearing (middle) and my previous Porsche bearing (right). The old Porsche bearing was removed due to it being a little noisy last year.

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New clutch kit has been ordered.


Whilst in there I have checked all other components, the DMF seems fine still and I also checked the clutch arm as it is prudent to change this too, I found I must have already fitting the 997 part at some point.

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Checking the thickness of the metal of the arm to be 3.8mm, I then measured the dimple in the arm where the slave cylinder plunger sits and this is 3mm, I am happy that this is thick enough to last a good few more years yet, all these parts will get refitted. This will also have a new slave cylinder fitted with a plastic end which will stop any further wear for a while.

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I've not updated this thread for a while so thought I'd bring it up to date.

Since I fitted a new fuel tank due to the previous one collapsing all has been fine with the fuelling/EVAP part of the car.

See separate thread. http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=129613

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And with the new wrap now on, its looking like a new car.

See separate thread. http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=130752

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So to present day, I had my MOT test on Monday and they flagged up a ball joint on the N/S coffin arm as "dangerous" and it failed because of this. I bought a pair of Spyder Performance arms and will fit my existing Powerflex bushes to them.

I dragged the car into the garage to swap both arms over and starting with the N/S one first I found the ball joint would not budge, even to the extent that the threaded part of the ball joint bent and my ball joint splitter cracked and is now only fit for the bin :what:

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I went out and bought a tuning fork type ball joint remover, it is a little more brutal than the scissor type but I needed brute force. Even with a lump hammer I couldn't get it to come free.

My next purchase was to replace my trusty old butane burner with a MAPP gas burner, these aren't particularly cheap but I thought I needed a lot more heat for this job.

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A few more whacks with the tools and it was free at last. I removed the poly bushes and these will be fitted to the new Spyder Performance coffin arms. The MAPP gas gun is a nice addition to my tools and I should have bought one a long time ago but the butane gun had always worked fine up until now.

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I have noticed the Spyder arms have a slightly bigger hole for the inner bush by almost 1mm and the poly bushes aren't as tight a fit as I would like, maybe due to the bushes already being used but measuring the diameter it is actually bigger than the standard hole. I may need to sleeve them and see how they go. I was offered a refund but I need to get them done this weekend for it's re-test next week.

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