996 neglected, time for some love & maintenance

infrasilver · 14 Apr 2018

I have been harvesting more parts this week ready to start putting the front end back together.

I received the repaired caliper back from Thomas at Pro-Calipers and I am really pleased with the result. I would never try to get a broken nipple out myself again as it seems anything you try to get it out with also ends up snapping, then you are screwed, especially for the cost and time it takes to get the repair done.

The caliper back and ready to be prepped for paint again.

Onto the caliper shims, I was going to buy a set once again and as I didn't change them on the last pad change they had corroded quite badly. At £50 a set and knowing they won't last long again I decided to make my own out of sterner stuff.

Dust,

I ordered some stainless sheet (although they sent brass but no matter) and proceeded to remove the pegs from the original shims. I also ordered some EBC 3M shim sound deadening sheets for the back of the shim.

After cutting to shape and drilling I fitted stainless allen head countersunk bolts, again to make these last as long as possible.

I'm hoping these will last quite a few brake pad changes going forward.

Alex · 14 Apr 2018

Probably better to make them out of brass - easier to work with. Stainless could've been a right pain.

infrasilver · 3 May 2018

Bit more progress but it is slow going trying to find time to work on the 996.

Front calipers prepped and ready for top coats and then new seal kits to be fitted.

The O/S inner sill is perfect with no rust at all but as I had it open I pumped it with waxoyl again, also doing most joints or edges I can see and anything with a little surface rust got coated with POR15. This will be one solid car in the future, it's great to get it sorted in advance of any rust developing.

Front discs got the top hats painted as I always do before fitting any new discs.

The O/S front brake pipe that was highlighted by OPC as being a little rusty has been prepared and coated with POR15 before it gets too bad and needs replacing, one more job done.

I need to get the front end all put back together this weekend as I need to start work on the clutch area of the car as soon as possible.

Jamesx19 · 3 May 2018

Great stuff. I especially like the brake shim idea. I'll employ that next time I change the pads. Brass should be ideal.

Marky911 · 3 May 2018

Yep, good work as ever Infra. Waxing inner sills on mine very soon.

Great work on the shims. :thumb:

infrasilver · 4 May 2018

I have said it before but I think now is the time to make sure your 996 is sealed from any future rust, we have seen a few early 996's starting to require welding and we all know what happens to 993's when these were neglected.

Locosaki · 4 May 2018

What is the best product to use for the inner cills, something I'll need to look at myself

maldren · 4 May 2018

I use Dynatrol with my compressor and a long tube to spread it.

coullstar · 4 May 2018

Snap, Dinitrol marine cavity wax.

Make sure if you get it to warm it up when using. I just ran some very hot tap water in the sink and put the tins in for a good 30min or so.

Locosaki · 4 May 2018

Cheers chaps, I'll get some ordered up. Anything that's exposed in the inner arches gets a coat of POR15, is that correct.

Marky911 · 4 May 2018

Loads of people swear by POR15 but I hate the stuff.

It might be good on rusted bare metal but there won't be much of that in your arches.... hopefully.

It's not very good going over already mint, painted areas and it runs like hell. You have to sit for a good half hour after you've painted it on and keep going over all the runs that appear. Plus it needs two coats.

I just grind any surface rust back to good metal, use a rust gel, zinc primer, then top coat of black metal paint if it's in the arches. Anything that unbolts gets powdercoated. The finish is a bazillion times better.

I'd rather just monitor my painted areas a bit more closely and top up if required, rather than pay the mental price for POR. It has its place but imo that isn't on a car.

Some people make out it's better than powder coat. It just isn't. :grin:

Just my 2p worth though.

infrasilver · 4 May 2018

I used tried and tested waxoyl as some classics (before they were classics) that had it done decades ago are still holding up. I microwave it for a couple of minutes and it goes like water, I then use a garden spray and put it on the jet setting, it gets right down the sills easily.

POR15 serves a purpose on surface rusted parts and does that job well, my radiator brackets had the powdercoat peeling and the exposed metal had surface rust, POR15 just paints on without the need to remove everything.

infrasilver · 10 May 2018

The last few days I have been finishing off the painting of the front calipers and refitting various parts, including new disc and pads.

I used the same yellow as last time so hopefully it matches the rears as these don't need painting yet, but I do have a seal kit to fit. I applied 6 coats of yellow and then fitted the decals with a further 4 coats of 2K lacquer on top of those.

Then I fitted the new seal kit to these and built the calipers up ready to go on.

I have fitted stainless bleed nipples all round but in addition I have made sure all the connectors for the hard lines are also stainless, I think I am one bad thread away from a scrap caliper. I found both sides seized again but luckily they eventually came loose, never again will I use anything other than stainless fittings.

I chased all the threads with an M10 x 1mm tap to clean them all up but I had to helicoil the inlet threads as the thread had been chewed up a little with it being tough to undo and I didn't feel there was enough good thread to make a tight connection, with the helicoil fitted it felt a much better seal.

All nearly there.

The low tone horn was also fixed today, when I removed it a few drips of water came out of the connector, (and it's been kept dry in the garage for 2 months) with the new one fitted I have wrapped the plug with self amalgamating tape so this should seal it for good now.

I'm going to smoke test the evap system before I refit the offside wheel arch liner as this may give me a clue to a long time issue with high altitude driving.

wasz · 11 May 2018

Marky911 said:
Loads of people swear by POR15 but I hate the stuff.

It might be good on rusted bare metal but there won't be much of that in your arches.... hopefully.

It's not very good going over already mint, painted areas and it runs like hell. You have to sit for a good half hour after you've painted it on and keep going over all the runs that appear. Plus it needs two coats.

I just grind any surface rust back to good metal, use a rust gel, zinc primer, then top coat of black metal paint if it's in the arches. Anything that unbolts gets powdercoated. The finish is a bazillion times better.

I'd rather just monitor my painted areas a bit more closely and top up if required, rather than pay the mental price for POR. It has its place but imo that isn't on a car.

Some people make out it's better than powder coat. It just isn't. :grin:

Just my 2p worth though.

I think you misunderstand POR15. Its not a paint - in the conventional sense. Normally paint is held in suspension in a solvent which evaporates.

POR-15 reacts with moisture - so it sucks the moisture out of the metal and the air to form a hard coating. Best to apply on a damp day!

You are right it needs a very good key - pitted formerly rusted metal ideal. It will not stick to old paint - it will peel off.

You are right though, it does run and its almost impossible to get a nice finish - but you are applying it over bits pitted from rust anyway!

It will also fade in sunlight, it needs a top coat on UV exposed bits. Its not the right choice of coating for visible parts.

foz001 · 11 May 2018

GOOD STUFF, ABOUT TO EMBARK ON A SIMILAR PROJECT ON MY 4S, RE HELICOILS, ARE THEY ALL MUCH OF A MUCHNESS AS EBAY IS FULL OF CHEAP REPAIR KITS?

Oh sorry for shouting!!

996 neglected, time for some love & maintenance

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