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997.1 Turbo not boosting (Now resolved thanks to 9e)

Ishay said:
The rusting of the casings seems to be a factor.

This any good for people...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152247348346

I actually sent these guys a message asking if they had a pair in stock and this was the message back


David,

no go on these sorry, they have been on national back order for many months
with no lead time sorry

we cannot help

Best Regards

Sarah Jones
Customer Support

It appears that some companies will take your order and money and then advise that there is a delay with the order thereafter, so definitely worth speaking to them beforehand. Speaking with a Borgwarner distributor the other day, it appears that turbos can now only be purchased through Porsche.
 
silvermilnec said:
This sounds a bit worrying! Any preventive maintenance we should be doing??

Martian said:
....Porsche issued a service campaign back in 2009 to lubricate them with a high temperature grease. I periodically give mine a squirt of said grease and haven't had an issue in the 42K miles of ownership.

Part no. P999.917.778.00 It's pricey though, around £60 per can!
 
Still not got to the bottom of the no boost issue.

My indy kindly put it up on the ramps one lunchtime to give it a quick once over to check for the obvious (stuck actuators, rods popped off, or hoses ) - but unfortunately all looked OK.

Its booked in for a more indepth investigation in a couple of weeks.

One thought - the exhaust note has become noticably boomey since the no boost issue manifested itself.

I am running a Kline system with 100 cell cats.

Could this boominess be indicative of what the problem might be?

Desperate to get fixed ASAP as I am really missing my boost fix
 
When mine went Pete Tong it was the actuator that was the problem, one side worked and one didn't.
Another problem I had was getting it back from a service and a mechanic at Porsche had not tightened the jubilee clip on the short inlet pipe that goes from the Y piece to the inlet. It blew off but took ages to figure out what the problem was, put the hose back on nipped it up, good to go!
 
Faulty recirculation valves? or recirculation valve hose can sometimes pop off..

They are located on each turbo.
 
vlad said:
Still not got to the bottom of the no boost issue.

My indy kindly put it up on the ramps one lunchtime to give it a quick once over to check for the obvious (stuck actuators, rods popped off, or hoses ) - but unfortunately all looked OK.

Its booked in for a more indepth investigation in a couple of weeks.

One thought - the exhaust note has become noticably boomey since the no boost issue manifested itself.

I am running a Kline system with 100 cell cats.

Could this boominess be indicative of what the problem might be?

Desperate to get fixed ASAP as I am really missing my boost fix

As your Indy has had a look and now wants to bring it back for another more detailed exploration, have you considered taking it to someone like 9E who seem to do a lot of turbo work, remaps and exhaust systems?
 
cheshire911 said:
have you considered taking it to someone like 9E who seem to do a lot of turbo work, remaps and exhaust systems?

I'm pretty sure this is the path the OP will take :)
 
9e are good and I've always found Ken very professional to deal with.

Another who knows their way around turbos is Matt and the team at Fearnsport. They did a great job sourcing a boost problem I had and having chatted to Tom about the work they did on his car, and seen the quality first hand, I'd consider reaching out to him as well? :thumb:

And as someone above said, don't discount the N valve. A common point of failure too. Good luck and let's hope it's something simple and not a turbo :thumbs:
 
Well a month on and still not resolved!

...But at least I am booked in to have it looked at next week :thumb:

........In the meantime though I thought I'd do a little investigation both on the car and on the internet.

Anyway armed with one of those £5 OBDII readers bluetoothed to mobile my phone - I see I have a fault code P1095 ?

From renntech
P1095 Mass air flow ahead of throttle valve implausible (too high)
Possible fault causes:
- Hot-film mass air flow meter faulty (battered)
- DME control module faulty (ambient pressure sensor at fault detection threshold)

Car still drives OK just gutless, boost very slow to come on, no CIL's

...So now I have a bit more information I have just taken the car out for a drive with the MAF disconnected.

I was surprised it made very little difference, still feels gutless, with MAF disconnected - no boost at all though not even the 0.4 I was getting after an eternity before with the MAF connected. Still no CIL's :?:

Then I found this thread http://www.911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=123923

My car is mapped I have the IPD82mm plenum and TB, Y-Pipe , could it be the MAF that is the issue ?

Though why do I get half boost after an eternity with the MAF connected and none with the MAF disconnected. (The MAF when it is connected is clearly having some effect - it allows some boost to come on.

Could it be the inputs from a failing MAFcausing the ECU to be confused?

Anyway enough amatuer sleuthing, off to crack open a beer :)
 
chimp911 said:
Sticky actuators is a fairly common problem (happened to me twice) and if it is this then a bit of high temp lubricant should free it up and off you go - a decent OPC would do this free of charge... good luck :thumb:

Any suggestions on what brand to go for with this high temp. Lubricant?

Cheers
 
vlad said:
Well a month on and still not resolved!
...But at least I am booked in to have it looked at next week :thumb:
Sorry to hear that mate, I do hope it is a quick or at least cheap fix :)
 
vlad said:
Well a month on and still not resolved!

...But at least I am booked in to have it looked at next week :thumb:

........In the meantime though I thought I'd do a little investigation both on the car and on the internet.

Anyway armed with one of those £5 OBDII readers bluetoothed to mobile my phone - I see I have a fault code P1095 ?

From renntech
P1095 Mass air flow ahead of throttle valve implausible (too high)
Possible fault causes:
- Hot-film mass air flow meter faulty (battered)
- DME control module faulty (ambient pressure sensor at fault detection threshold)

Car still drives OK just gutless, boost very slow to come on, no CIL's

...So now I have a bit more information I have just taken the car out for a drive with the MAF disconnected.

I was surprised it made very little difference, still feels gutless, with MAF disconnected - no boost at all though not even the 0.4 I was getting after an eternity before with the MAF connected. Still no CIL's :?:

Then I found this thread http://www.911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=123923

My car is mapped I have the IPD82mm plenum and TB, Y-Pipe , could it be the MAF that is the issue ?

Though why do I get half boost after an eternity with the MAF connected and none with the MAF disconnected. (The MAF when it is connected is clearly having some effect - it allows some boost to come on.

Could it be the inputs from a failing MAFcausing the ECU to be confused?

Anyway enough amatuer sleuthing, off to crack open a beer :)
Your starting point must always be to boost leak check the car - none of this silly smoke rubbish. You disconnect both turbo to intercoolers hoses - they block one side and pressure to a couple of bar. That will show you any leaks.

It sounds like you have a post TB leak - so it could be the check valve on the plenum that is faulty and causing the problem or the o-ring between the TB and IPD.

I would guess the one way valve is broken.

Start with the basics. :thumb:

Ken
 
997 Turbo VTG rebuilds

Potential to rebuild 997.1 VTGs

So to put the information out there, there is a major problem with supply of VTG parts. It seems Porsche has told BW not to supply at the moment.

Now, non VTGs can always be rebuilt.

The problem with VTG is the canister - the part between the hot and cold side. What we are seeing is corrosion (nothing you can do to prevent) and you get a leak in the canister. The normal resolution is to strip the turbos down and fix the canister. The problem is that this is proving very difficult in most cases because there is not enough meat left to be able to put the clamps back on. You need to file down to remove the leak, but then you have nothing to clamp on.

We are looking at producing a solution, but this is months away and will take some development, because this is going to become a major problem for vtg owners.

Ken
 
Two good posts Ken! I had suggested that the OP take the car to you as you know the turbo cars very well. I hope OP gets it sorted in whatever way he chooses.
 

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