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FAQ, How to add radiator bumper grills to a 996 ...

Thanks to GT4 I felt brave enough to have a go at PU removal, Dinitrolling and a/c condenser replacement over the bank holiday weekend.

The only change I made was to mount the mesh inside the black ducting, rather than immediately behind the PU. It took a bit of work with a cardboard cut out first, but I was able to arrive at a shape which wedged in just around the plastic side of the rubber /plastic join of the ducting. I was then able to make it very secure with just 3 cable ties through holes drilled in the plastic.

The only slight drawback is needing to cut 2 holes the size of a 2 p piece through the mesh to allow you to get a screw driver through, with screw taped to the end, to reattach the ducting. I don't think many leaves will get through them though. The upside is you can't see the mesh when the job is finished, unless you get on your hands and knees with a torch. Next time the PU needs removal, the screws can be accessed through the holes, or the 3 cable ties can be cut and the mesh pushed out of the way to make the screws easily accessible.

I know I should have taken photos as I went along, apologies for forgetting :eh!:
 
Sounds good - was there room to install the mesh on the outside of the ducts?

Presumably there is as that is effectively what attaching them to the bumper does, it puts them between the bumper and the duct.

This would make re-installing the ducts much simpler as you could add the mesh with the already ducts on the car.
 
You can fit the mesh between the PU and the duct where it's visible, I just wanted the front to look as original as possible without the mesh being visible. I also didn't have confidence in my ability to cut and bend the mesh so that it didn't interfere with the refitting of the PU if I had the mesh between the duct / PU interface.
 
Got new condensers yesterday, decided to order some Dinitrol to coat them with before fitting etc... will also get some mesh etc.

Did a quick Google and found a 10% discount code for the Dinitrol, courtesy of Land Cruiser Club - LCRU1

Total cost was £22.50 since unless your order is worth £50 or more, they will charge £8 (+ 20% VAT) for shipping.
 
Has anyone got a link for a vid or post showing removal of a 4S/Turbo PU?

Photobucket have FUBARd the excellent PH post with pics.

Or is it the same as NB 996 removal?
 
Thanks Ian, that's great... was it an OK job?
 
It was more straightforward than I had first anticipated. Getting the bumper off was as per the video - no real difficulty. Used a rough card template to cut the mesh but left a fair bit oversize as I wasn't sure how much I would lose when doing the bending. Found it easiest to get it roughly in shape then fix one edge in place first while working round the aperture and bending to fit. That way I could stretch and mould the mesh more easily into the required shape without the other side pulling with it - basically I wanted the mesh to sit up flat against the horizontal slats. I think the turbo style aperture is a bit more convoluted than the standard ones I had seen on some videos so probably needs a bit more stretching and shaping to fit well. Did most of the shaping by hand apart from where I wanted the mesh to stretch into the rounded corners where the rounded head of a screwdriver did the trick. Having fixed the edges as I went along I only then snipped off the excess so that I could see how much to come off. To fix the mesh used very small self tapping screws with a large flat head that I already happened to have from another job (think they were originally for fixing some vinyl trim onto one of my classic cars) and drilled small pilot holes into the edge of the aperture - the edges have some reasonably thick walls in places so the screws were short enough so that they didn't protrude into the gap where the pastic ducts need to fit. Probably needed no more than 6 or 8 screws to get a very good fix. I think some people have used various silicone of epoxy glues to hold things on with good success. The most awkward part was getting the bumper back on - took a couple of goes to get the plastic ducts to slide back into their slots, plus you need to make sure the plastic locating tabs underneath the car are in the correct position or the bumper won't slide up tight to the lights and the edges of the front wings. First time I had the bottom lugs on the wrong side of the undertray which wouldn't allow things to line up - would definitely recommend having someone available to help hold things while you are doing this as every time I seemed to get one side lined up it would drop again when I moved to the other. Also remember to tape some cord to the temperature sensor and pass it through the mounting hole before putting the bumper back on - you can then pull the sensor roughly into place afterwards before getting hold of it and pulling it fully home ( yes, I did forget about it the first time!!)

Cheers......Ian
 
Top tip on taping a cord to the temp sensor... having spent 25 minutes trying to fish it through with two screwdrivers after I'd had the PU painted I will defo be taking your advice! It was a bit like the old 'Operation' game...

Mine has mesh grilles already actually, but I need to remove the PU to get at one bolt on the fan cowling to slide the fan assembly out of the wheelarch side (apparently this can be done instead of removing the radiator and condenser etc.) I will have a good look though before committing, just in case there is a work-around.

Having a go tomorrow, so will post up what happens...
 

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