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battery, starter motor, or the other wire bit...

I was told this many years ago on a training course so have never fully investigated it , bear in mind i started electrics in 1985 !

So .. my thoughts on it :)


Alternator output is about 13.4 on a standard output , this does vary with the state of charge in the battery and loads so 13-15 volts .. a fully charged battery is about 13 volts and the higher the state of charge in a battery then the slower it will take to charge due to restistance ..

I tend to think of it as filling a bath .. if you want it at the brim then you cant keep the water tap fully open .. you have to slow it down to a trickle .

The battery is constantly being charged and constantly supplying current for all the electrical items so water is going in and out of the bath at different amounts over time .

80% is probably more of an older figure .. i would expect current cars to be higher at around 95% as technology has improved .

You also have to factor in wear and tear for the alternator , the wiring and the battery .


Thats my guess anyways :D
 
@ michaelbbwalker

A flat battery will take 2 hours to be about 80% charged at an rpm of at least 1500 .

Starting a car and leaveing it running for 10 mins or so will probably take out the same as is put in .

Get him to pop the bonnet then with a screwdriver push the latch shut .. the light will go off and the car will think its closed .

For jump starting then you just connect to the battery .. both leads are black so in a dark garage make sure you connect the leads correctly .

You can see the earth lead connects to the body though as its very short .

Jump pack can normally sit to one side of the battery if it has short leads .

Youll have to reset the windows so press and hold the switch up for 5 seconds both sides and the warning lights will go after a short drive .
 
Update... so im home now :sad: I tried with my starter pack, no joy it didn't have enough juice... so charged it up and still no good... popped over to a guy across the road who lent me his jumper cables, and also a battery he had charged. .. it was only a small battery and didn't have enough power either, so we fitted the jump leads to my wife's 4x4, had to daisy chain 3 cables together to reach the battery, I struggled to find a decent ground point so we tried a few but even jumping off another car it didn't want to start! He also lent me his battery charger so ill see if it will charge it up enough to start...
Its proving more tricky than I expected to get this going, im getting a lot of clicking when I try and start it so hope it's not the starter motor jammed, does that happen on these cars??
Will report back after the battery is charged!
 
If the battery is totally dead then it will be a struggle to jump start it .

In this position you are better off fitting a new battery .

Try trickle chargeing the old battery but if no good then a new one is required .

The starter solinoid will click with low current .. so a click from the engine is what you will hear .. it is similar to a starter motor failure but i cant belive your battery AND the starter has failed at the same time .

Good battery fitted first then move on :)
 
If I'm not driving my car for more than a week I just disconnect my battery although it's a new battery!! I leave the bonnet unlocked when I do and sorted, if by accident the bonnet lock/closed then I attach a small device I made and plug inside the drivers are and unlocks the bonnet. :thumb:

J
 
Yes I am intending on buying a battery, is that link above from tayna the correct one, do they only make that one? I don't want to order the wrong one, haven't had a chance to go to halfords to look if they have one but couldn't see one on the website...
Also I read a few people saying they changed the battery by standing in the front boot? Surely this wouldn't take the weight of an adult human?? Do they mean take the lining out or actually just standing in it? :eek:
 
i can confirm that neither I nor my mate fell through the boot floor.
I just put a towel down first to save the carpet
 
I put a floor mat in there then climb in .. you try and lift a battery from outside the car .. if your back survives then its good going !

To be fair this is the normal way i replace the batterys on these .. you often have to wiggle the battery side to side to get it free as well .
 
Hmmm... so after 2 days the battery finally charged and I just took it for a spin, sounded pretty rough, and had a check engine light on the dashboard... thought this was one of the warning lights which would go off so I took it for a leisurely drive, it sounded rough all the time, like it wasn't running on all cylinders... it seemed to be idling at about 500rpm and sounded like it was about to die as I was pulling off.
Could it be that the battery is just too weak to even run the car? I can't think of anything else that would explain it running like this?
I took a quick video which I will upload for anyone to listen to and diagnose...
 
edge said:
I have to fit the Moll battery on my car for warranty reasons and I am on my 3rd in 8 years , they are rubbish especially if you lay the car up over winter.
If your Battery is the Porsche specific Moll battery and its 3 or 4 years old I would ditch it and change for a better make unless of course you subscribe to the Porsche warranty then you don't have that option. Check the earth strap as they have been known to go high resistance.
Click to expand...

Fitting a non standard battery does not invalidate your warranty
 
Im hopeing the garage is causeing an echo on that video as it did sound metalic .. might be better to re film it outside .

Misfire is the most obvious cause atm .. with the eml light on there will be a fault code , depending on what this is will say what the fault is.

Once the car is started it will run from the alternator .. thats not brilliant for an alternator if the battery is dead but it will still cope so its not a voltage problem .. unless you also have a faulty alternator !

Hmm .. do another video outside .. please !


reguards the Moll / Porsche battery , as said it wont invalidate your warrenty ... but you will need a porsche battery fitted if you want to have a 111 point check done for a warrenty .
 
Cheers for the reply demort... I gave it another go today, before starting though I left it for a bit to do the throttle reset thing, heard a bunch of clicking and whirring etc, sounded much happier today and no CEL :?:
 
I would be happier if next time your at your garage to get a fault code read out and a check of the adaptions (fuel )

Yes it does have to adapt but the car can pretty much sort its self out quicker than what you have described .

Basically see how you get on

:thumb:
 
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