Porsche 911UK Forum

Welcome to the @Porsche911UK website. Register a free account today to become a member! Sign up is quick and easy, then you can view, participate in topics and posts across the site that covers all things Porsche.

Already registered and looking to recovery your account, select 'login in' and then the 'forget your password' option.

996 neglected, time for some love & maintenance

You'll fly through that list infra!

Just don't your bleed nipple extracted by the guy that did Craig's. :grin:




He charged him £50 for the privilege too. It works I suppose but does nothing for the appearance.

I always wanted a fettled 944 or 968 but never scratched the itch. I always ended up choosing an M3 or something instead simply for the soundtrack.

Your 944 should be a hoot with that motor in.

Are you running a baffled sump in the 996?
I've always said I simply will not track mine but I'm missing the trackdays and can't warrant a dedicated track car for a couple of years yet.
 
Marky911 said:
Your 944 should be a hoot with that motor in.

Not 100% sure it will go in the 944 yet as it would need a lot of S2 parts to get it to run properly but it came up cheap and running but in need of a rebuild so couldn't resist at £300.

Marky911 said:
Are you running a baffled sump in the 996?
I've always said I simply will not track mine but I'm missing the trackdays and can't warrant a dedicated track car for a couple of years yet.

Not using a baffled sump, would like to but as most have extra depth/capacity my car sits a bit low for that extra depth. I have done a few track days in it and really enjoy it on track but just don't do too many as I popped the engine twice on track and it works out cheaper to have a dedicated 944 track car than risk the 996 engine again.
 
I take it your gearbox is coming off?

I heard a rumour the release bearing is an audi part and cheaper to buy that way.

Also will you fit the updated 997 clutch release arm and ball pin etc? It supposedly eliminates creaks....

My arm looks a little damaged from the slave having metal on metal. You can't buy the old arm anymore, have to buy the new arm ad then you need the retainoing parts too. Mines coming from OPC £68 inc. I also got a release bearing guide tube £34 inc. I don't want my clutch creaking!
 
wasz said:
I take it your gearbox is coming off?

I heard a rumour the release bearing is an audi part and cheaper to buy that way.

Also will you fit the updated 997 clutch release arm and ball pin etc? It supposedly eliminates creaks....

My arm looks a little damaged from the slave having metal on metal. You can't buy the old arm anymore, have to buy the new arm ad then you need the retainoing parts too. Mines coming from OPC £68 inc. I also got a release bearing guide tube £34 inc. I don't want my clutch creaking!

I will be removing the box and going through what I need while its off, most things you have already documented on your thread but I will see exactly once it's removed.

Unfortunately I bought the Audi equivalent release bearing you mention last year, £50, it's very slightly smaller on the bearing face that touches the clutch cover fingers and I think this now also needs replacing as it squeals like a pig and is embarrassingly noisy, I think I have also (probably) damaged the clutch cover fingers from the noise I am hearing?

I found a correct P/N release bearing from Design911, £33 delivered, I'm sure they have make a mistake with that price as it was £110 from OPC.
 
Wow! 2 engines let go on track!

That sort of confirms my concerns and everything I've read says the oil system isn't upto scratch for hard cornering on track. GT3s have more scavenge pumps so oil starvation isn't a problem.

As you say a dedicated cheaper track toy is the best option as cars do get an utter pounding on track, so it's better to have a nice road car and a separate track car.

£300 sounds like a bargain for that engine. Good luck with the refresh. :thumb:
 
infrasilver said:
alex yates said:
Remember this time last year :grin:

Should have given myself enough time, this time, to complete and as it only requires rear brakes..... not an engine rebuild. :roll:

Although I do have a newly aquired 944 S2 3.0 engine currently being stripped ready for a rebuild. :lol:

More on that will be in the 944's thread soon.

944 track car? Where 's the thread... (found it... didn't know there was a non-911 section on here :dont know: )

Here's mine

9mIwFAwP.jpg
 
So after the unscheduled repair to the 944 I have got my time back for the work on the 996 once again, previous and new lists below.

infrasilver said:
to be done in Red

Brake pipe O/S front
Caliper bleed nipple extraction
Front caliper seal kit.
Brake bleeding, again.
Clutch bleeding, again.
Creaky clutch slave cylinder.


Added to the list January,

New slave cylinder
New release bearing
N/S steering arm, inner and outer

Added to the list April,

Targa roof leak, same place as last time.
Rear caliper seal kit.
Low tone horn
N/S headlight intermittent fault (plug).
Waxoyl inner sills.
Smoke test EVAP system for leaks.


I started off with the front N/S corner as there are a few things that need addressing here, most pressing is the broken bleed nipple. It has been like this for a few years now and I have had a few goes at getting it out including easy out and welding a nut on but both times it has failed. I had been bleeding the brakes through the fluid connection on the side and the other bleed nipple.

I started off by removing the caliper but both the hard lines ends were quite stiff and to save breaking anything I cut the line and crimped the end over to stop any fluid loss while the caliper is away.

26365140527_a1cbf9a68f_z.jpg


It was easier to tap a socket onto the calipers end and remove, this saves any further issues with this caliper.

39428030220_b13cab716c_z.jpg


As you can see it has had some heavy work in this area trying to remove the nipple in the past, heat, drill, left hand drill, easy out and welding. I have been in touch with Thomas of Pro-calipers and he is going to have a go at it for me.

26365142947_c0c8c50413_z.jpg


Both front calipers will get repainted and new seal kits are being fitted before refitting. I also ordered Titanium ends for the hard line as I'm sick of these also seizing.

I wanted to remove the pistons before I sent the caliper off so I had to come up with a way of doing this without compressed air as I am away with work and don't have my compressor handy

I though what I could make to allow the calipers to be lifted out. The best I could think of was compressing rubber grommets into the piston recess and hoping this would be a strong enough bond to lift them out. I impressed myself as they came out without too much of a problem at all.

I thought I would post pictures so it can be copied if required.

40523748334_02fa8d2113_z.jpg


26365166447_5ddf0dd0a6_z.jpg


40341880145_79bc8e18a0_z.jpg


Just use a couple of rubber grommets that are a decent fit into the piston and using a bolt and two washers that are also able to fit into the recess, tighten the nut to create a tight fit. Fit the larger washer and nut above and just get both hands and using fingers over the caliper, lift the pistons out.

I only found one piston bore with a little crud in it, in the top of the picture.

40523722914_c2891b5ff9_z.jpg


The caliper will be with Thomas for the next few days so I will be getting on with the horn and headlight plug while also starting to remove the rear of the arch liner to check for potential rust in the inner sills.
 
infrasilver said:

Urx9khd.jpg


This is what mine looked like, various things tapped in and snapped off and attacked with a drill not straight and an attempt to tap it round with a punch. I also rounded the fluid entry nut trying to save the hard line in removing it.

I had a local engineering firm mount it in their mill and mill it out and clean the thread up.

Anyway its fine now.
 
They are a huge pain when they snap off but mine is currently on its way to Pro-Calipers and I hope to see it back soon.

While the caliper is away I have decided to remove the wheel arch liner and check for corrosion behind it. I'm glad to say there is nothing much out of the ordinary and checking inside the sills there is just a little surface rust at the near end where there is a drain hole.

This is the crud that dropped out, nothing too bad considering.

26407574657_a637172294_z.jpg


The offending surface rust.

41236039272_1e6c182260_z.jpg


I thinned and heated up the Waxoyl to make it thinner and blasted this part of the inner sill as far down as I could see. I also did some brake lines and other metal pipes behind the wheel arch liner. Mostly this car does seem quite rust free.

26407510437_03a4e1a5d4_z.jpg


I will still have to Waxoyl the other sides sill and from both rear ends of each sill.

I noticed some underseal had come off and this got painted with seam sealer then it'll get a coat of black underseal once more.

40382857535_ed4fb1d656_z.jpg


Also the radiator bracket had cracked powder coating so this was painted with POR15 to seal that too.

All in all it seems (so far) a rust free 996.
 

New Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
124,354
Messages
1,439,459
Members
48,711
Latest member
Silage
Back
Top