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996 3.4 DIY Clutch & Fly etc turns into mini restoration

Tell you what, ill box them up and see how much royal mail want to post them and see if you are happy to pay that - more convenient for me than waiting round for a courier as I am rarely in the UK at the mo let alone at home!

PM me your address and if you are happy with their price ill post them this week and speak on the phone to explain how to use them. Again i would like them returned though (in case I ever have the ludicrous idea to do it again - unlikely).

I used a Lemforder replacement - no complaints but haven't tried an insert. Why not try both? If its to harsh remove the insert?
 
wasz said:
Also I rather suspect my oil is coming from the IMS seal. If theres no leak from the RMS, I dunno, maybe I should leave it alone? Again I'm in two minds about it. I have a new seal sitting here. Will see what it looks like.

The rule of thumb is to leave the RMS alone if it is not leaking at all. A new seal will be better than the old one but if its not fitted correctly it may leak, it's not particularly hard to fit if you have done this kind of work before though.
 
infrasilver said:
wasz said:
Also I rather suspect my oil is coming from the IMS seal. If theres no leak from the RMS, I dunno, maybe I should leave it alone? Again I'm in two minds about it. I have a new seal sitting here. Will see what it looks like.

The rule of thumb is to leave the RMS alone if it is not leaking at all. A new seal will be better than the old one but if its not fitted correctly it may leak, it's not particularly hard to fit if you have done this kind of work before though.

Thats what I was thinking, if its OK I might well leave alone....but if I have a new seal and Gixxer's install tool in my hand.....

I'm generally an "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" kind of guy, but I'm going to have a stab at my AOS as although it seems to work, there is oil around the bellows again (replaced bellows before).
 
I left mine alone even though I had a new RMS ready to fit. The leak was coming from the ims cover plate, so fixed that (2 years ago) and all's well.
 
I agree with Alex and infrasilver .. if it aint broke then dont fix it .. you can cause problems when you dont need to .

Whats the condition of the release arm where the slave cyl rod touches it ?

The plastic bit on the end of the slave rod can wear through and start to push a hole in the release arm ( metal on metal ) , btw grease that part .. it can cause a squeek later on .

If no damage then you should be able to put the slave cyl back together ok .. just lub the rubber boot first before fitting .

If you can get away with the slave cyl pipe then do it , it often doesnt come out of the quick release brass part and thats even more expense .

Picture of the rms / ims would be usefull :D

Edit ..

Aww i almost forgot , the standard way is to drill into the RMS then fit a screw and use that to lever it out .. dont .. dont snap off the drill or indeed damage the case halves with the drill ..

I spent ages many years ago finding a fault on a car only to find a broken drill bit in the scavenge pump o/s .. probably from a RMS replacement !


I kid you not .
 
Demort said:
The plastic bit on the end of the slave rod can wear through and start to push a hole in the release arm ( metal on metal ) , btw grease that part .. it can cause a squeek later on .

The arm itself looks OK.

However there is no sign of a plastic end on the clutch slave. If you hadn't said that I wouldn't have thought there ever was one. Looking at pics of new ones I can see a plastic covering the whole end - theres not even a worn bit of plastic anywhere.

Do you know if there is a repair kit available that includes a new bit of plastic like there is for other cars?

Do you ever bother to replace the release bearing guide tube?

Will try to get the clutch and fly off maybe one evening this week.

Ouch about the drill bit!
 
Also Demort (or anyone else) another question if I may....

The over gearbox brake line:

all the brake pipe nuts on my car seem to be m10 for 11mm spanner.

Except this one. It plugs into the larger hole in the connecting block:

web99635566006.JPG


Mine has had a short piece replaced and seems to have a 1/2" brake nut at this end...measured with vernier def 1/2" not 12 or 13mm - surely not right on a german car? Do you know the size of brake pipe nut needed here - I am getting someone to make up kunifer lines.
 
wasz said:
However there is no sign of a plastic end on the clutch slave. If you hadn't said that I wouldn't have thought there ever was one. Looking at pics of new ones I can see a plastic covering the whole end - theres not even a worn bit of plastic anywhere.

I am going to be fitting a new slave to mine in the coming months and from the pictures I had seen I thought the plastic end was just for transit purposes? From the pressure of the slave plunger onto the release arm, those plastic ends must only last a couple of thousand miles. I have also seen pictures on new ones without this plastic end so I am confused now.
 
Plunger should definitely have plastic/rubber cap but yeah Infra they do wear out, usually long before the clutch itself. That's where the creaky clutch pedal comes from. It's in the box rather than actually at the pedal.

Here's a kit you can get with 997 parts. Rubber end shown in pics. -

https://www.design911.co.uk/mobile/#part;id=12760
 
Marky911 said:
Plunger should definitely have plastic/rubber cap but yeah Infra they do wear out, usually long before the clutch itself. That's where the creaky clutch pedal comes from. It's in the box rather than actually at the pedal.

Here's a kit you can get with 997 parts. Rubber end shown in pics. -

https://www.design911.co.uk/mobile/#part;id=12760

That threaded bit with the plastic end is the lower pivot pin, not the end of the clutch slave.

I did get the bits in the pic, excl. the release arm.
 
Yep, my bad. I linked to it in a hurry last night.

My mate showed me it the other week as he bought that kit and I thought I remembered it containing the plunger cap, as his was creaking before removal. .
I didn't bother buying it as I had no bother with any aspect of mine, yet when my Indy stripped it he found no cap on the slave cylinder rod. I had a good spare so used that.

Don't know if the cap is available separately but I'd guess not, knowing Porsche.
 
Maybe the cap came in a later revision of the slave cylinder to stop creaks.

I suspect mine is a 1998 original, I'd expect the cylindrical part of the cap to still exist if the tip wore way.

Demort has me concerned now, should I replace the clutch arm (with the revised 997 arm £45) and the slave (£65) to stop my slave punching a hole in the old arm.......I would probably end up replacing the clutch flexi hose too(£120). Another £250 to spend. I'm sure if I had just paid someone to do this job they wouldn't bother. hmmm.

Some links with images
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/974816-clutch-slave-cylinders-blowing-out.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/556724-clutch-fork-question.html
 
wasz said:
I'd expect the cylindrical part of the cap to still exist if the tip wore way.

Exactly what I was thinking after I'd posted last night, if there was ever a plastic cap on the end it would still be there on the plunger minus the end that wear through on the release arm.

My 3.6 didn't have anything on it when I first removed it and if this is a revised part the plunger (or release arm) would also need to be revised and be slightly shorter than the original one or there is the potential of the clutch slipping.

I would just inspect your release arm and make the decision to replace or not.
 
Good points. I'm gonna ask my indy about that, unless Demort knows obviously.

Yeah Wasz. Where do you draw the line? That's why I didn't go for that kit as I had zero issues before doing the clutch anyway.

Heck, I only changed the clutch as I wanted my IMS seal flipped and had an oil leak from up there. It's only 20k since clutch and flywheel were last done.

I didn't fit a new slave cylinder either. I stick with the one on the car as it was fine, but took the cap of a spare I had.
If it ever goes it isn't back a box off job for the slave cylinder so again I though, the list has to be ended somewhere. :wink:

I have just orderded the main gearbox bush for my box going back in.
I don't rate the powerflex ones although I know they've revised them.
I figured why use one of those to support an old main bush when I can just replace the proper bush as Porsche intended.
I bought the £16 Lemforder one.
 
Ive always said my written explainations are useless :(

The rod on the slave cyl that touches the release arm has a plastic end to it .. it can wear through so you have a metal on metal (slave cyl rod to release arm ) this can in turn push a hole in the release arm .

If replaceing the clutch then i would always replace the release bearing guide tube .

EDIT im afraid im out of time now and starveing .. ill recheck what i wrote here and the posts first thing tomorrow evening .. second night on the trot i have run out of time :(
 

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