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996 3.4 DIY Clutch & Fly etc turns into mini restoration

wasz said:
infrasilver said:
Demort said:
A question for you guys .. how do you fit the crank seal without the tool ?

Personally I use the old seal backwards and a piece of wood to drift it in a circular motion.

That sounds easier than sourcing 100mm plumbing. (UK is 110mm).

I'll give it a bash (!).

I understand the depth has changed a few times, is the latest 15mm from flywheel mounting face?

I just have it in about 0.5mm from the casing face, there is a figure but I don't have it to hand.

wasz said:
And what if any sealant do you use (I noticed on Marky911's they used some red sealant on RMS and IMS seal, and yellow on the threads of the IMB cover bolts).

Don't use any sealant and you need it to be oil free too. Just be patient and get it straight. Using sealant actually lubes the sidewall of the seal up and can slip out by itself. The latest RMS design is the best and will seal fine.

The IMSB cover bolts go straight through into the hollow casing so use thread lock on them.
 
Go on Wasz!! You glutton for punishment.

Regarding the sealant. My Indy once had an IMS seal that must have been faulty from the factory. He fitted it and got everything built back up and finished.

It leaked after a short time so he had to do it all again, hence the sealant.
It doesn't go on the proper IMS seal. You let the seal do its job on its own. The sealant goes behind the seal when it's almost in. It's just a belt and braces option, so if you do ever get a weep from the seal the secondary barrier should stall it for some time.
I'm happier with it added but some, like infrasilver aren't. That's fine, it's just personal preference.

Same with the bolts. If you look at the new bolts in one of my IMS cover pics you'll see a substance on the threads. That's a thread lock/sealant from Porsche. Again you let that do its job and add a bit of liquid sealant just under the heads as you tighten them up. Again personal choice but seems sensible to me.

Good luck buddy. I would hate to tackle that lot on the floor. I'm sure you'll manage though. Watching with interest. :thumb:

PS. I see you mean RMS too. No sealant on that as I far I'm aware. Clean and dry as Infra says.
 
Some clever ideas on how to fit the RMS .. i think id just stand there and complain i didnt have the tool ! ahhh working on these for a living makes one lazy i guess :D

No sealent on an RMS .. hard to say on the IMS .. i have and havent over the years but neither way caused a problem.

The 13mm nut .. put sealent under it and on the threads , if the O ring seal on the shaft gets damaged then that will seal it .

RMS seal placement .. basically anywhere that is in a different position from the last one .. you will see a wear mark on the crank when you remove it so 1 mm away from that is fine .

The seals and placement have changed so many times over the years though its hard to keep up ..Leaks here are Porsches achilies heel i think .

Just for info ..

The tool for the RMS puts even pressure on the seal to slide it in .. i have many years ago got it slightly off and it damaged the seal as it was pushed in .
Basically be care full not to push it to much side to side and if you see any rubber coming off the seal then fit a new one as thats what happened to me.

Cam shaft locking tools .. again clever and a good idea .. probably best if i dont say how we do the job :)


Fuel filter .. yup im not suprised im afraid .. something like 2002 ? they stopped having a fuel filter .. its always been an option like plugs , brake fluid etc and it gets missed by the service advisors .. mechanics tend to do what it says on the job card ..

Ive questioned why a major with no Brake fliud change .. with out plugs etc many times only to be told it was done as such and such or not needed so we kinda give up asking .. Sorry for that ... i try harder these days at an Indy though .

Also at OPC i was on a set time for a service .. not nice to get told your not fast enough every month at the apprasial so you tend to do what your told .. again sorry for that .

Im nothing if not honest .. it will be the death of me i swear !!
 
Isn't cam locking tool 6mm thick? I know it is for the 3.6 as I used to make them.

If so, you might want to use 3 pieces of 2mm plate.

Edit: Although I suppose if your 2mm offset (step) is correct, then one face of the cam slot will sit flat against the tool.
 
ragpicker said:
@Demort - I'm sure you boys don't use the cam tools, I imagine its pretty easy to eyeball and tell they are bob on before and after taking the tensioners out? Especially if you've done loads of them :dont know:

Cough .. no comment cough .. " Crank pulley locking pin " cough crank flywheel locateing pin in a certain position on a certain web cough ..

Cough .. cam tool .. cough sure i had one once cough ..

Im sorry i have a cold .


Always use the tools gentlemans :D
 
Marky911 said:
I'm happier with it added but some, like infrasilver aren't. That's fine, it's just personal preference.

It's not strictly personal preference. I like a little bit of sealant and have done through my life on engines as I think it does add something to gaskets even on a brand new surface. I did try some sealant on an 996 RMS once and it made it really hard work to install, it kept popping back out due to it being under pressure and now lubricated with sealant.
I came back to it thinking I had made fit but it had come out at an angle again, I bought a new seal and cleaned all the sealant off the face and I've never had an issue installing one without sealant.
 
Demort said:
Cough .. cam tool .. cough sure i had one once cough ..

Hmmm.......

Stupid question - but I'm assuming I need to lock both ends of the engine, so need 2x camlock tools?

Some of the how-to's only show locking the gearbox end accessible bank 2
 
alex yates said:
Isn't cam locking tool 6mm thick? I know it is for the 3.6 as I used to make them.

If so, you might want to use 3 pieces of 2mm plate.

Edit: Although I suppose if your 2mm offset (step) is correct, then one face of the cam slot will sit flat against the tool.

Ta I'll double check when I flip the plugs out
 
:thumb:
 
infrasilver said:
Marky911 said:
I'm happier with it added but some, like infrasilver aren't. That's fine, it's just personal preference.

It's not strictly personal preference. I like a little bit of sealant and have done through my life on engines as I think it does add something to gaskets even on a brand new surface. I did try some sealant on an 996 RMS once and it made it really hard work to install, it kept popping back out due to it being under pressure and now lubricated with sealant.
I came back to it thinking I had made fit but it had come out at an angle again, I bought a new seal and cleaned all the sealant off the face and I've never had an issue installing one without sealant.

Totally agree infra. :thumb:

As I wrote the bulk of my initial reply I was talking only about the IMS cover. It's not until I read Wasz' post again I realised he mentioned RMS too, hence my quickly added "PS" at the end.

As you say, the RMS and it's bore should be squeaky clean and bone dry.
I'm sure mine would have been. It wasn't actually fitted at the point of my IMS photo.
 
For wasz ..

I havent got anything on an early 996 so this is from a 997 05 so same engine but later type cam locking tool .

From the crank pulley (drivebelt ) then bank 1 is left so n/s and bank 2 is right so o/s .

Right mouse click on the picture and select view for a larger image of the picture
 

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Thanks Demort! I do need two cam locking tools then.

I notice in those instructions they do not remove the tensioner for bank 4-6 (under the a/c compressor?)

I also watched this (similar age engine) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nRmB53bALf8 and he does not remove this third tensioner either.

I take from that it it not necessary to remove this. But I can't understand why.....surely that tension would cause the ims to be pulled over to that side?
 

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