Rusted Manifold Connection

Norfolk &amp; Idea · 31 Dec 2017

These are my Kline headers fitted. Can anyone tell me the bolt type used for manifold to block? They look like mild steel bolts to me. I provided the Ti studs but obviously couldn't be used. Cheers...

easternjets · 31 Dec 2017

The Turbo and the non Turbo are different all together, the Ti studs and nuts that are supplied on here fit the non Turbo car but not the Turbo car. The Turbo manifolds are bolted on using 'normal' steel bolts that seem to hold up well to corrosion, mine all came out with ease, just remember to apply some copper grease to the threads when reapplying and if you do to decrease your torque setting slightly as the Copper Grease has a friction co-efficent that reduces the torque that needs to be applied.
I fitted ebay manifolds and whilst they weren't perfect they were cheap and well made, the only thing with them is they do protrude below the engine quite a bit, as opposed to the stock ones which are quite flush.
When I got my Gen 2 I replaced all the nuts and bolts as a precaution and greased them all before refitting, saves a shed load of time if you don't have to faf about cutting and removing broken studs and bolts.

Norfolk &amp; Idea · 31 Dec 2017

easternjets said:
The Turbo and the non Turbo are different all together, the Ti studs and nuts that are supplied on here fit the non Turbo car but not the Turbo car. The Turbo manifolds are bolted on using 'normal' steel bolts that seem to hold up well to corrosion, mine all came out with ease, just remember to apply some copper grease to the threads when reapplying and if you do to decrease your torque setting slightly as the Copper Grease has a friction co-efficent that reduces the torque that needs to be applied.
I fitted ebay manifolds and whilst they weren't perfect they were cheap and well made, the only thing with them is they do protrude below the engine quite a bit, as opposed to the stock ones which are quite flush.
When I got my Gen 2 I replaced all the nuts and bolts as a precaution and greased them all before refitting, saves a shed load of time if you don't have to faf about cutting and removing broken studs and bolts.

Thanks easternjets. That's cleared that up. Mild steel is the easier material to work with. Stainless can be a proper fekker especially when combined with high temperature. And I've split enough gas turbine exhaust stacks to know!

easternjets · 31 Dec 2017

It's the winter time that plays havoc with the metal work. My car has been laid up over the winter and is 6 years old, all the nuts and bolts bar a few brackets were in pretty good shape, even the K nuts on the 'cats' came off without a fight.
Your best friend is ACF-50 fluid and copper slip/grease, a stitch in time and all that!

Scholester · 31 Dec 2017

easternjets said:
It's the winter time that plays havoc with the metal work. My car has been laid up over the winter and is 6 years old, all the nuts and bolts bar a few brackets were in pretty good shape, even the K nuts on the 'cats' came off without a fight.
Your best friend is ACF-50 fluid and copper slip/grease, a stitch in time and all that!

It was you Ian that gave me the confidence to tackle the job myself! :thumb:

Do you recall if the Kline system comes with the Cat to Turbo gasket or will I have to pick new ones up from OPC? The exhaust was supposed to arrive on Friday but delivery is now next Weds at the earliest so if I know the gaskets are not supplied then I will order them in to save time.

I have not used ACF-50 before but it's on the list. Copper slip was applied to everything apart from the Titanium bolts used at the heads. I have a crusty oil line or two which I will replace and the ACF-50 may help protect the useless cheap metal used at the rubber to stainless unions.

rob_p · 31 Dec 2017

alex yates said:
No. What you have is this:

What's being discussed is this:

Does anyone know off the top of their head what size nuts and bolts I need for the triangle fixings? This is on my list of preventative maintenance jobs. Should I get marine stainless fixings for this job?
Thanks in advance.

John997 · 1 Jan 2018

Here you mate:

Bolt - M 8 X 30 x 6
Nut - M 8

On mine I had the bolt heads (which were flat) and these had a small tac-weld on the side of the head to the flange. Some have spline shafts but mine was tac welded on.

To get these out and depends what state they are in etc... so check them out first and have a go, you can with a lot of patience by grinding them out BUT the easiest way is get them cut out with a plasma cutter - real quick. If you know anyone with one then will save you a headache.

I just bought some stainless steel ones and fitted spring washers with a good coating of high-temp copper paste.

Hopes this helps fella

rob_p · 1 Jan 2018

John997 said:
Here you mate:

Bolt - M 8 X 30 x 6
Nut - M 8

On mine I had the bolt heads (which were flat) and these had a small tac-weld on the side of the head to the flange. Some have spline shafts but mine was tac welded on.

To get these out and depends what state they are in etc... so check them out first and have a go, you can with a lot of patience by grinding them out BUT the easiest way is get them cut out with a plasma cutter - real quick. If you know anyone with one then will save you a headache.

I just bought some stainless steel ones and fitted spring washers with a good coating of high-temp copper paste.

Hopes this helps fella

That's great thanks.

Rusted Manifold Connection

Norfolk & Idea

Mugello

easternjets

Paul Ricard

Norfolk & Idea

Mugello

easternjets

Paul Ricard

Scholester

Barcelona

rob_p

Suzuka

John997

Silverstone

rob_p

Suzuka

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