Posted: Sun Dec 31, 2017 5:24 pm Post subject: 996 3.4 DIY Clutch & Fly etc turns into mini restoration
I reached critical mass in my parts hoarding. Something has to give, the parts need to be fitted sometime. No better time than outside in mid winter. I have borrowed a car for the duration, the 996 is SORN.
CP4L: clutch kit, flywheel, flywheel bolts, sealant, threadlock, genuine RMS
type 911: clutch cover bolts, aos, alignmnet tool, clutch lever repair kit
oh and i have fuel filter and waterpump, and belt bearings to go in too.
Step one: Jack up the car
Step two: Snap three of the middle underbody cover threads clean off
I fear this is going to take a while. More to follow.
Last edited by wasz on Sun Jan 28, 2018 8:43 pm; edited 3 times in total
911munKy Montreal
Joined: 26 Nov 2014 Posts: 564
Posted: Sun Dec 31, 2017 7:38 pm Post subject:
Step 3 - use cable ties to put it back together and wait until Spring! _________________ 2000 C2 996
MisterCorn Dijon
Joined: 08 Jan 2011 Posts: 7303 Location: Nottingham, England
Ah ye of little faith. I once swapped the gearbox on a 306 so feel I'm qualified for this task.
Demort wrote:
&
Good to have you on board!
I only get the odd hour to do stuff unfortunately.
Today before removing anything I cracked every bolt. I DO NOT want to be stuck on the drive with a seized bolt or snapped mounting point after reading marky911's experience: http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=118164&start=120
Thankfully all my brace bar and gearbox mounting bolts came loose, except I couldn't get on the top bolt - this will have to wait as I will drop the engine on its mounts 25mm to gain access.
This is the extend of my RMS or IMS cover leak - you can see fresh oil:
And this is what your undercarriage looks like after 19 years of said weeping oil:
Dirty. Maybe I'll get it steam cleaned when I'm done. Or maybe not.
I proceeded to remove all underbody covers and arch liners.
This was lurking under rear wheel arch sill ends:
Full of mud! no arch corrosion yet though, the jacking point area needs buzzing off and POR-15 as will under this plastic trim. Seems solid so hopefully no welding needed....
This brake line was hiding, looks OK so will wire brush and liberally waxoil. Someone has been in and replaced the other lines already.
EDIT: this brake line will be replaced
I'd advise you all to remove your underbody plastics and check whats lurking.
Next step will be fabricating tools.
1) jack attachment for transmission
2) camlock tools
Last edited by wasz on Mon Jan 15, 2018 9:49 am; edited 1 time in total
infrasilver Fast & Furious
Joined: 04 Oct 2010 Posts: 8492 Location: East Midlands
It could be your IMS seal that is leaking and I'm assuming this is getting the outer bearing seal removed while you are in there? _________________ http://euroroadtripper.blogspot.co.uk/
deMort Dijon
Joined: 21 Mar 2015 Posts: 7573 Location: Brighton
Posted: Mon Jan 01, 2018 6:07 pm Post subject:
Have a good look at the brake pipe were it goes into the clip as thats the point they rot out .. if in doubt then either replace or cut and join .. ive blown those pipes on road test before and it happens when the car is MOT,ed on the brake rollers due to the excessive force used .
Check the clutch slave cyl pipe and union as they are often heavily corroded these days .
Ive seen in our bodyshop they have a tool that you fit a new stud into , press it against where you want it and it will weld it in place so perhaps thats an option as it doesnt take long .
I do love a post like this .. nice going young man
Thats not a bad leak IMHO .. i see far worse !
Ive not done this in a few years now but im sure there was x2 bolts going sideways in the caseing that when you do ims / crank seal you also replace as they can leak .
A question for you guys .. how do you fit the crank seal without the tool ? _________________ .
My Daughter's Crowdfunding has hit the target .
Thank you all so Very much .
She's not going until july 2020 though .
7pm - 9pm
Now At An Indy.
MisterCorn Dijon
Joined: 08 Jan 2011 Posts: 7303 Location: Nottingham, England
I love threads like this. As I am sure many other amateur spanner twirlers do, I look for things like this when I have a job to do. When I don't find it I get stuck in and write it up myself. Don't spare the details.....
MC
infrasilver Fast & Furious
Joined: 04 Oct 2010 Posts: 8492 Location: East Midlands
It could be your IMS seal that is leaking and I'm assuming this is getting the outer bearing seal removed while you are in there?
Yes I'm going to check the bearing for play and flip the seal off.
Demort wrote:
Have a good look at the brake pipe were it goes into the clip as thats the point they rot out .. if in doubt then either replace or cut and join .. ive blown those pipes on road test before and it happens when the car is MOT,ed on the brake rollers due to the excessive force used .
Check the clutch slave cyl pipe and union as they are often heavily corroded these days .
Ive seen in our bodyshop they have a tool that you fit a new stud into , press it against where you want it and it will weld it in place so perhaps thats an option as it doesnt take long .
I do love a post like this .. nice going young man
Thats not a bad leak IMHO .. i see far worse !
Ive not done this in a few years now but im sure there was x2 bolts going sideways in the caseing that when you do ims / crank seal you also replace as they can leak .
A question for you guys .. how do you fit the crank seal without the tool ?
A question for you guys .. how do you fit the crank seal without the tool ?
Personally I use the old seal backwards and a piece of wood to drift it in a circular motion.
That sounds easier than sourcing 100mm plumbing. (UK is 110mm).
I'll give it a bash (!).
I understand the depth has changed a few times, is the latest 15mm from flywheel mounting face?
And what if any sealant do you use (I noticed on Marky911's they used some red sealant on RMS and IMS seal, and yellow on the threads of the IMB cover bolts).
A question for you guys .. how do you fit the crank seal without the tool ?
Personally I use the old seal backwards and a piece of wood to drift it in a circular motion.
That sounds easier than sourcing 100mm plumbing. (UK is 110mm).
I'll give it a bash (!).
I understand the depth has changed a few times, is the latest 15mm from flywheel mounting face?
I just have it in about 0.5mm from the casing face, there is a figure but I don't have it to hand.
wasz wrote:
And what if any sealant do you use (I noticed on Marky911's they used some red sealant on RMS and IMS seal, and yellow on the threads of the IMB cover bolts).
Don't use any sealant and you need it to be oil free too. Just be patient and get it straight. Using sealant actually lubes the sidewall of the seal up and can slip out by itself. The latest RMS design is the best and will seal fine.
Regarding the sealant. My Indy once had an IMS seal that must have been faulty from the factory. He fitted it and got everything built back up and finished.
It leaked after a short time so he had to do it all again, hence the sealant.
It doesn't go on the proper IMS seal. You let the seal do its job on its own. The sealant goes behind the seal when it's almost in. It's just a belt and braces option, so if you do ever get a weep from the seal the secondary barrier should stall it for some time.
I'm happier with it added but some, like infrasilver aren't. That's fine, it's just personal preference.
Same with the bolts. If you look at the new bolts in one of my IMS cover pics you'll see a substance on the threads. That's a thread lock/sealant from Porsche. Again you let that do its job and add a bit of liquid sealant just under the heads as you tighten them up. Again personal choice but seems sensible to me.
Good luck buddy. I would hate to tackle that lot on the floor. I'm sure you'll manage though. Watching with interest.
PS. I see you mean RMS too. No sealant on that as I far I'm aware. Clean and dry as Infra says.
deMort Dijon
Joined: 21 Mar 2015 Posts: 7573 Location: Brighton
Posted: Tue Jan 02, 2018 7:53 pm Post subject:
Some clever ideas on how to fit the RMS .. i think id just stand there and complain i didnt have the tool ! ahhh working on these for a living makes one lazy i guess
No sealent on an RMS .. hard to say on the IMS .. i have and havent over the years but neither way caused a problem.
The 13mm nut .. put sealent under it and on the threads , if the O ring seal on the shaft gets damaged then that will seal it .
RMS seal placement .. basically anywhere that is in a different position from the last one .. you will see a wear mark on the crank when you remove it so 1 mm away from that is fine .
The seals and placement have changed so many times over the years though its hard to keep up ..Leaks here are Porsches achilies heel i think .
Just for info ..
The tool for the RMS puts even pressure on the seal to slide it in .. i have many years ago got it slightly off and it damaged the seal as it was pushed in .
Basically be care full not to push it to much side to side and if you see any rubber coming off the seal then fit a new one as thats what happened to me.
Cam shaft locking tools .. again clever and a good idea .. probably best if i dont say how we do the job
Fuel filter .. yup im not suprised im afraid .. something like 2002 ? they stopped having a fuel filter .. its always been an option like plugs , brake fluid etc and it gets missed by the service advisors .. mechanics tend to do what it says on the job card ..
Ive questioned why a major with no Brake fliud change .. with out plugs etc many times only to be told it was done as such and such or not needed so we kinda give up asking .. Sorry for that ... i try harder these days at an Indy though .
Also at OPC i was on a set time for a service .. not nice to get told your not fast enough every month at the apprasial so you tend to do what your told .. again sorry for that .
Im nothing if not honest .. it will be the death of me i swear !! _________________ .
My Daughter's Crowdfunding has hit the target .
Thank you all so Very much .
She's not going until july 2020 though .
7pm - 9pm
Now At An Indy.
Alex Le Mans
Joined: 06 Mar 2014 Posts: 17120 Location: The Ribble Valley, Lancashire
Isn't cam locking tool 6mm thick? I know it is for the 3.6 as I used to make them.
If so, you might want to use 3 pieces of 2mm plate.
Edit: Although I suppose if your 2mm offset (step) is correct, then one face of the cam slot will sit flat against the tool. _________________ 2000 Manual 996 C4 Arctic Silver Convertible
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