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The Finn's 997 4S progress thread - GT3 RS Wheels
- Thread starter Thefinn
- Start date
When i bought the car there was a small ding in the door that i want to get rid of asap so i had a local paintless dent repair guy round today fix it.
Its the first time i have tried this method and i have to say i am very impress.
In just a couple of hours the dent was gone with no trace, no paint required and the car stayed on my drive. Not only can you not tell but it only cost £84 to have it repaired as well, what a bargain!
Its the first time i have tried this method and i have to say i am very impress.
In just a couple of hours the dent was gone with no trace, no paint required and the car stayed on my drive. Not only can you not tell but it only cost £84 to have it repaired as well, what a bargain!
I used a local to me guy called Liam from Storm Dents who i would highly recommend, he even leveled out my only stone chip on the bonnet for free so all i need now is a little touch up paint.
https://stormdents.com/
before dent removal
https://stormdents.com/
before dent removal
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The second job on the list took a little longer as i wanted to install the connector for my Ctek charger. I did look around for different places to take the cable under the car and one of the front air scoops but there was not really a suitable location the was easily accessible for the new cable and when you connect.
In the end i went with Monsters suggestion from one of the other threads and started the install to the hole in the scuttle for the retaining bolts with the plastic covers that can be pulled off.
Firstly i removed the scuttle clip and disconnected the battery. Then the first job was to pull the new cable from the hole in the scuttle to the battery area making sure it was tidy and not flapping around by tucking it in when i can. I will cable tie this at a later date when i take the scuttle off to back to black it with heat, but that's on the later job list.
I forgot to say i protected the car with magnetic wing covers while completing this as i can be quite clumsy.
Then i cut the connector in half and spliced the cables together with the additional cable in the middle to make up the extra length. Don't forget to put the heat shrink on before you do this.
These were then soldered together and the shrink shrunk.
In the end i went with Monsters suggestion from one of the other threads and started the install to the hole in the scuttle for the retaining bolts with the plastic covers that can be pulled off.
Firstly i removed the scuttle clip and disconnected the battery. Then the first job was to pull the new cable from the hole in the scuttle to the battery area making sure it was tidy and not flapping around by tucking it in when i can. I will cable tie this at a later date when i take the scuttle off to back to black it with heat, but that's on the later job list.
I forgot to say i protected the car with magnetic wing covers while completing this as i can be quite clumsy.
Then i cut the connector in half and spliced the cables together with the additional cable in the middle to make up the extra length. Don't forget to put the heat shrink on before you do this.
These were then soldered together and the shrink shrunk.
Attachments
this was then completed on the opposite end but this time making sure to pull the cables back so that the slack in the cables was removed.
This is what you end up with a connection to the battery and the charger connection under the scuttle clip. Thanks Monster a good solution for the Ctek install
This is what you end up with a connection to the battery and the charger connection under the scuttle clip. Thanks Monster a good solution for the Ctek install
Attachments
Onto the last job i go round to this weekend which was the most exciting and a birthday present to myself as this was the wheel upgrade. Firstly i had reconnected the battery after completing the Ctek to move the car inside as it was getting a bit cold, so the first job was to disconnect this and wait 15 minuets which gave me time to make a tool to help remove the old airbag.
First pictures are of my old wheel and the tool i made which was a past it screwdriver that i cut the top off and filed to take any burrs off. You will see a small hole in the bottom of the main body of the wheel which my tool got pushed into, it was a perfect size and having the handle gave you more grip to give it a good push(no these aren't euphemisms). The airbag released but only on one side so i had a bit of a tug on it but it didn't come free so rather than braking thing i pushed it back to the lock position to start again, the second time all of the clips sprung off at the same time and the bag was free.
First pictures are of my old wheel and the tool i made which was a past it screwdriver that i cut the top off and filed to take any burrs off. You will see a small hole in the bottom of the main body of the wheel which my tool got pushed into, it was a perfect size and having the handle gave you more grip to give it a good push(no these aren't euphemisms). The airbag released but only on one side so i had a bit of a tug on it but it didn't come free so rather than braking thing i pushed it back to the lock position to start again, the second time all of the clips sprung off at the same time and the bag was free.
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once the airbag was out you can view the back of it which has the main clip back to steering column and then three clips that attach it to the wheel. These all need to be un-clipped / pulled off. The orange and green one need to have the retaining clips prized off before they can be removed from the bag. I just went steady working round the clip in different areas with a flat head to release it, once this clip is off the connector will pull off the airbag.
Once this is out the way you can undo the wheel retaining nut with a T55 torques bit, i thought it was going to be harder than it was reading other post and youtube vids but it actually came undone quite easily. I just made sure that i pulled the wheel in the opposite direction to undoing the nut not to put pressure on the steering column or lock. Once removed i marked the top sides and bottom positions of the old wheel on the steering column with a marker.
Once this is out the way you can undo the wheel retaining nut with a T55 torques bit, i thought it was going to be harder than it was reading other post and youtube vids but it actually came undone quite easily. I just made sure that i pulled the wheel in the opposite direction to undoing the nut not to put pressure on the steering column or lock. Once removed i marked the top sides and bottom positions of the old wheel on the steering column with a marker.
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To remove the old wheel i just gently wiggled it until it came away and made sure that before it finally came off the wheels were straight. The new wheel just pushed back on making sure not to trap any cables. It also had a marker at the top of the wheel which the old one didn't which made things easier to line up.
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last two jobs were to install the new nut that came with the new wheel and torque to 37 ft lbs then connect up the new airbag. The main clip is a direct replacement and just slides into the the old connector in the column, the new clips with the wheel then just push into the bag, pushing in the orange plastic locks so things don't move.
At this point you you should add a little silicone grease to the clips on the airbag to help release it in the future (thanks for the tip Phil) but i forgot but i did remember that Phil told me to make sure the cables sit in the groove to the side of the airbag otherwise the horn can have issues. Then you can just push it back in until it clicks into place and reconnect the battery and test the horn.
At this point you you should add a little silicone grease to the clips on the airbag to help release it in the future (thanks for the tip Phil) but i forgot but i did remember that Phil told me to make sure the cables sit in the groove to the side of the airbag otherwise the horn can have issues. Then you can just push it back in until it clicks into place and reconnect the battery and test the horn.
Attachments
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