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Any tips on replacing the upper rocker cover gaskets?

decgraham

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Joined
17 Sep 2008
Messages
1,664
Hi All,

Well now that it's cooled down a bit, it was only 23C today :D I've picked up where I left off. First job today I gave the old girl an oil and filter change. I then changed the cam chain tensioner gaskets, a possible oil leak source. I am now left with doing the oil bridges, again an oil leak source, new O rings all round and finally the upper camshaft covers, another oil leak source.

Having looked at the oil bridge on the LHS there doesn't seem to be much space to lift the bridge off. Also having looked at the LHS upper camshaft cover it all looks a bit tight there too. So as the title says can anyone give me a few pointers / tips on how to tackle the job without taking the engine out :?

Oh, I removed the rear fan and all the tubing.

Thanks a bunch.

ATB :)
 
Hi mate, tackled this job myself today but my engine is out on a stand so different circumstances totally, I did think to myself that it would be VERY difficult whilst the engine is in situ. Although the condition of the hex bolts are much better so less likely to round than the lowers, but it would mean scraped knuckles for sure.

Judging by my engine (circa 100k) it would seem that most of the oil was coming from the lower covers, which I also removed, cleaned, new hex bolts and seals today.

What do you mean by the oil bridge and where is it?, I haven't seen anything obvious :?:

Trev
 
Hi Trev,

Yep with the engine on a stand it must be a lot easier to get to things. I remember saying that to the guide when I did the factory tour in Stuttgart the year before last.

The oil bridges are just by the top LHS and RHS of the cam chain covers. I'm attaching a pic from the PET so you can see where they are. I also replaced the gaskets No 12 as well.

I think I'll try and drop the engine down off the rear hanger, It gives a bit more room to work and was helpful when I replaced the PAS pump drive belt cover. Otherwise I think I'll need to remove the rear end again along with all the tin wear :x

By the way when I did the LHS cam chain tensioner gasket I did notice oil around the area so I believe there was a leak there, the RHS seemed OK.

Re the seals if you mean the rubber ones I just gave them a light smear with a light grease.

ATB :)
 

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No need to drop the engine down it's all accessible as it is. Air box and fan out etc. all be it a bit fiddly! 😂 if you can remove bk1 side tinware it makes it easier to get to bolts etc this does mean removing the exhaust. Tbh bk2 you have to remove the tin ware to gain acess it is possible without just very awkward, done both ways in the past. Little stumpy Allen keys are your friend with this job !! Make sure we'll seated as there a nightmare if the head strips out ! Don't overtighten them either putting them in think the torque is quite low, can look up if you require it.

The bridge pieces are simple to change to 10mm nuts and washers. Plastic piece pulls of and the pull the tube out new seals and grease and back in 😆

Hope this helps !
 
Thanks P-Tek much appreciated, I'll let you know how I get on, I thought it might be easier with the tin ware removed.

ATB :)
 
Thanks Dec & P Tek

9.7 NM for the Torque on these puppies, is there a approved pattern?, I'm guessing start from the middle and work outwards?.

Last night I took off my lower Varioram actuator which operates the lower valve/flap as there was a small oil leak, pulled it out and there's a rubber seal that obviously needs replacing, a quick google and they are available so good news, hopefully another oild leak thwarted.

Trev
 
Sounds about right to me ! I just start in the middle and work out😁

With the lower vario ram flap there's a rubber gasket between it and the manifold but inside the unit there's a seal that usually causes the leak. Pop the 13mm nut off and the flap comes apart to reveal the seal can't remember the size but a decent bearing shop will have one I'm sure !!

Dec just noticed you said you did tensioner gaskets. Just checking engine was on tdc !?

All the best
 
Hi P-Tek,

No I didn't check to see it was on TDC :? However, after I did the RHS I turned the engine over with the DME out,
All sounded good and then started her up. No horrible sounds heard and it seemed to run just fine. Do I need to be worried :nooo:

ATB :)
 
It's not ideal tbh but it sounds like it's all ok as you said it starts, there's a chance of timing jumping when releasing tension on the chain but fingers crossed your all good 😁
 
I hope you're right, of course now you've said that it makes sense. I'll turn the engine over with the DME out and have a listen before starting her up. Although it was all good after doing the RHS I didn't check again after doing the LHS, I just got on with other jobs. Any advice ?

Thanks P-Tek :thumb:

ATB :)
 
Tbh no .. not really sorry Unless you have acess to a set of cam locking tools ? You can check the timing without them but it's a bit of a pain. If you didn't hear and noises taking it out I would have thought you'd be okay 👌 but I can't say for sure. Let me know how you get on ! 🍻
 
Thanks again P-Tek. I'll turn the engine over by hand before I start it just to play safe. I didn't hear anything untoward when I removed the LHS cover but to be honest I wasn't listening for anything either.

ATB :)
 
Not a problem and issues just give me a shout, hope all goes well and leak free !
 

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