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Stone chips

jond58

Nurburgring
Joined
19 Jun 2017
Messages
453
I have a couple of stone chips, nothing major but I'd like to keep on top of it. Has anyone any experience of using chipex?
 
Some folk on here have used it with some success. I however, despite following the guide to the letter regarding prep, cleaning etc found it to be a total waste of money. The paint came off much quicker than it took to put on.
 
Oh!? Well that's less than ideal!
 
I used chipex on my guards red GT3 which had lived on track for a lot of its life. The front bumper was almost white with stonechips.

I was very happy with the results for the cost BUT they will never be invisible unless you respray the panel.

I'll be getting a black chipex kit for my C2 as it has minor chips in various places and like I say it does hide them. But it's a bit of a 6ft solution. Get close and you'll see the chip. It's now a touched in chip rather than just a chip.

Pretty obvious I suppose and in the end depends whether you're going for a concours standard finish or a good useable quality finish.

So I'd probably recommend chipex but don't expect the results to be "totes amazeballs". :wink:

The YouTube videos make it look like you can achieve flawless repairs. You can't and most of the "after" shots online are from further away than the before shots.
 
I fully understand that it won't be the same as a paint job! Just checking it's ok or if anyone knows any better solution. Done some paintwork myself in the past so understand that fairly well. It's a black car and I just want to 'cloak' them a bit. I'll be having some paintwork done no doubt next year or the like as I'm a bit ***** with that sort of thing! I flat sanded from 1200 grit to 6000 trizact on my van I use for work if that gives you an idea of my paint obsession!
 
Ha! You're insane. :D

Well I'm a fanny and found chipex ok. Definitely better than just using touch up paint as you wipe the excess off leaving the paint just filing the chip nicely.
I know you can flat down touch ups with wet and dry but Chipex is much easier.

Once you get the knack of how long to leave it before wiping over with the removal solution it's no bother.
Like I say I'll be buying it again soon. For £40 or whatever what have you got to lose? If you don't like it then worst case you're back to where you started. :thumb:

You haven't come through the VW world over the years have you?
They are the fussiest and most impressive show car peeps I've ever met/seen.
 
Exactly correct!!!! Mk1 and mk2 golf gti's. Corrado's too!! Once you learn to flat sand and what can be achieved you never look at a cars paintwork the same again!! My van wants machine polishing again now though, the problem with all the flat sanding is that in time it tends to 'drop' more and need more polishing up which is why manufacturers don't do it!
 
Ha, thought so. I remember back in the day my Veedub mates would take entire weeks off work to prep the car for a show at the weekend.

I was a Ford fan, so RS owners club. Similar sort of thing, strip underseal from underside then paint body colour. Turn up at show jack it up and put mirrors underneath. :grin:

I was never that bad mind but the levels of OCD were impressive. :thumb:

I've wet sanded scratches out that are too deep for my DA to remove but never gone right through the grades. Do you buff the paint back up between each grade of sanding or just go 1500,2000, etc then buff it back up at the end?

I may give this a try. Will do it on an old banger first mind. ;)
 
Depends on exactly how bad the paint is, scratched, orange peel etc. So if the paint is decent i.e. No orange peel or sags but scratched I'd start with 2000 grit, then 3000 then the trizact 6000 then a machine polish after. Wet the panel with a hose pipe, soak the paper in water for half an hour before starting, put some car shampoo in it'll help lubricate it. Then get sanding!!! Straight lines, not swirling it about. I started on some old panels to practise first. Metallics will be clear coated obviously so don't go through this. When I painted the van it had two coats of base then about five coats of clear just so I had loads to go at! Probably added a few percent to the coefficient drag! You can flat sand with the da and it works well if you are starting with paint defects like orange peel and 1000grit but I prefer to do it by hand. Try not to press your fingers on the paper, hard to explain I guess, but it can leave an impression in the sanding. Just have a practice on a panel from a scrap yard, you'll get a door for £20 probably.
 
Great info Jon, cheers for that. Will deffo have a go at some point.

Good luck with the chipex if you go for it.
The other method I've seen for stone chip repairs (you've probably seen it) is just to use normal touch up paint until it's above the level of the good unchipped paint. Then when dry, use a hole punch to make tiny circles of wet and dry paper. Glue one of these to a pencil eraser on the end of a pencil and use a spinning motion with the pencil to grind the touch up paint down to the correct level.
After that buff the whole lot up. It looks fiddly but I've seen good results with it.
Essentially though this is what chipex does but quicker as you take the excess paint off while it's still wet, rather than waiting for it to dry then sanding it.

Anyway good taking to you. Cheers. :thumb:
 

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