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No more buzzing, but all is not well......

jpsh120

Sao Paulo
Joined
30 Aug 2015
Messages
994
This post contains images of Porsche bodgery that may cause offense to some viewers.....

My car had been emitting a buzzing noise from the NS exhaust which was both irritating and embarrassing. After having a poke around I found a couple of the pipe support plates had come away on one end which was the cause of the buzzing.

So I stripped the bumper and heat shields off the car so the plates could be welded (a 3rd broken one was found under the heat shield). All done and the car now sounds as good as ever but without the background buzz!

Whilst everything was apart I also took the opportunity to give the whole system a spruce up, a big improvement IMO;

DSC_0153_zpsoh4u32fw.jpg


DSC_0159_zpsuihpyq5y.jpg



Whilst I was under the car poking around I had also noticed a braided pipe which appeared to be doing nothing. However once all the heat-shields were off, the mystery was solved, along with answering why the PSE does not work!

DSC_0155_zpsugbrzvgc.jpg


Not too clear in the picture but it looks like the actuator rod that attaches to the valve has been cut off so I'm not sure if a new one can be attached or if the whole thing would need to be replaced?

Thoughts?
 
Porsche bodgerey it is not! Saving yourself ££££s and Porsche tax on a solution that works, rather than just replacing parts which is what most outfits will do to maximise profit at your expense!

Good job, looks good :thumb:

Which brackets had come away? When I was replacing the engine mounts on my car yesterday I noticed that both the small brackets that are welded between the cat/muffler pipes had cracked, these are the small brackets you can see just above the tips. Wondering if this is the source of the farting noise I get just off idle when pulling away!! :dont know:
 
This picture shows 2 of the offending items, the 3rd spot is on the top side of the one on the right. You can make out where the welder has been.

DSC_0154_zpsedni16gl.jpg
 
@ jpsh120 you will need a new silencer really , i guess it would be possible to buy the entire valve assembly .. may be search ebay then have it cut and welded in place but you will need to remove it and find somewhere that will do it.

Another way of stopping those annoying rattles .. bend it lol ...


EDIT

Actually i did a search and something like this would do .. need to get the right size though ..


http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-5-63mm-Ex...cuum-Actuator-Open-Or-Close-KSP-/282404088096
 

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Thanks for that, looks like a good option.

I'm trying to figure out what my exhaust is doing as it is now. I was always of the opinion that it was stuck in permanently on (open) position but now I'm not sure.

The picture of that new valve matches the position of the offside valve on the car which would suggest that the offside valve is closed and the nearside which has been butchered would presumably be stuck in the closed position also?
 
OP, don't worry about the mechanical side of things, just get your spray can out, looks real perrty. Good job 👍
 
I can never remember im afraid but the other side should work if the vacum pipe to the broken side is sealed off .. have a look at the electric valve and try and trace the vacum pipe if its not obvious or block at that valve .... the other side should work and youll soon know quiet and loud positions .

If not then you have more than one issue .
 
Well so far I have established that the offside valve is open and stuck in that position. The actuator rod moves freely and the valve can be manually closed so I'll see if I can get it working correctly.

The nearside valve appears to be either completely closed or open just a little, itself noticed easy to tell from gas flow from the inner pipe. I think I will look at getting a replacement valve welded in attack some point.
 

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