996 neglected, time for some love & maintenance

infrasilver · 19 May 2017

wasz said:
I saw Pelican parts recommend replacing the release lever and ball pin, and the release bearing guide tube to eliminate any creaks, and sell a super kit with everything:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperCat/996J/POR_996J_TCLUTC_pg1.htm

Dunno but it was on my mind to change those when I do my clutch.

The release lever is just pressed steel so I can't see the need for replacing that until huge miles, maybe the other items, yes, but for that price I will just clean them up and blob a bit a grease on them.

infrasilver · 19 May 2017

stevemfr said:
Hi Infra,
Don't be afraid to drill and re-tap. Go very carefully, start with 2.5 or 3mm max, center punch and continually check for being centered at the beginning of the pilot hole (first drill). If you wander off at the beginning you can angle the drill to "steer" the hole into the proper position shortly after starting. Once you get close, the tap will actually clean the original threads rather than cutting new threads if all is good.

Don't recall ever having done bell housing bolts/studs, but I can't recall how many exhaust studs I've drilled out. Not rocket science - just diligence.
:thumb:

I will give it a go I just need to get some new drill bits as mine have had some hammer over the years from jobs just like this.

Alex · 19 May 2017

Let me know if you need to borrow any tackle mate (taps, drills, etc.)

infrasilver · 19 May 2017

alex yates said:
Let me know if you need to borrow any tackle mate (taps, drills, etc.)

:thumb: I'll see how I go with what I have or get, I'm unsure of the bolt length so will need to know that before drilling and also this bolt is a weird one, it's a different thread to all the rest on the bellhousing and quite a close thread pitch.

AOS is done so will update later if I get chance, looks like the large red O ring was leaking but I may have also found another culprit = more work.

thecarfixer · 19 May 2017

infrasilver said:
stevemfr said:

Hi Infra,
Don't be afraid to drill and re-tap. Go very carefully, start with 2.5 or 3mm max, center punch and continually check for being centered at the beginning of the pilot hole (first drill). If you wander off at the beginning you can angle the drill to "steer" the hole into the proper position shortly after starting. Once you get close, the tap will actually clean the original threads rather than cutting new threads if all is good.

Don't recall ever having done bell housing bolts/studs, but I can't recall how many exhaust studs I've drilled out. Not rocket science - just diligence.
:thumb:

Click to expand...

I will give it a go I just need to get some new drill bits as mine have had some hammer over the years from jobs just like this.

Cobalt drill bits for this job are a must. And a good quality tap, with cutting oil.

Alex · 19 May 2017

Just having a browse on t'web. Looks like the higher ones are all M12 and that one is M10 (is on the boxster so I presume the same). If it's a fine thread I think I have M10 x 1.25 as well as standard M10 x 1.5

infrasilver · 20 May 2017

I've just placed an order for a good set of cobalt bits and regarding the bolt, it does seem strange that they put a different bolt, M10 and spline head, in that position and I have always wondered why and would be happy to take it up to M12 if needed but would rather replace like for like if I can.

infrasilver · 20 May 2017

Update on the AOS which sounds like a nothing update really but it may help if someone has oil leaking in this area.

I removed everything AOS related after inspecting the area and found the wettest part, other than the puddles, was just below where the AOS mounts onto the crankcase. Most of the fins on top of the crankcase had a little pool of oil in them at the rear of the engine as seen in previous pictures.

It was here just below this pipe joint which also looked like it was leaking a little.

and when removing the AOS it was clear that the O ring was weeping as can be seen on the mating face and the red O ring in these pics.

I replaced both O rings for the top and bottom plastic pipes.

And decided I would run a bead of Loctite gasket sealant on the top face where the new AOS will go, as a precaution.

So once I'd cleaned the whole area up (brake and carb cleaner) I fitted the new AOS and its pipework.

It was as I was packing my tools away that I noticed the dipstick tube and where it mounts into the crankcase and looking at it this could also have been a culprit, even though its about 6 inches away from the AOS there were still wells of oil next to it.

OK, so undid the bolt holding it in place but it won't lift out to let me replace that O ring as the inlet manifold on that bank is in the way. Next job is to remove the inlet on bank 1-3, one step forwards two steps back.

infrasilver · 21 May 2017

alex yates said:
Just having a browse on t'web. Looks like the higher ones are all M12 and that one is M10 (is on the boxster so I presume the same). If it's a fine thread I think I have M10 x 1.25 as well as standard M10 x 1.5

Found out today the broken bolt is M10 x 40mm so I think there is only around 10-15mm still in the hole and hopefully shouldn't take too much effort to get out.

Alex · 21 May 2017

:thumb:

infrasilver · 21 May 2017

Update from the weekend on the car but I'm pretty much out of things to do until the drill bits arrive and people come up with the goods, ie the CAT lambda removed and a new silencer, I hate relying on others to do things for me

The new (used) header tank arrived and is now fitted, it does make the original one look quite manky.

A few other bits also arrived.

I removed the N/S inlet manifold to get the dipstick off and I'm not sure that the oil is coming from this as the O ring is still a tight fit and whilst re-fitting it I also put a little sealant around this too to make sure it was definitely sealed.

I cleaned up the variocam sensor area and fitted the new seal so that all looks a lot cleaner too.

I also trial fitted the gearbox mount insert and I think the issue with excessive vibration that others have experienced may be down to the thickness of the side section, it seems to be too thick to fit into the cradle and instead of being 10mm it should be more like 7mm so it's not so tight. I would be interested to know the thickness of the Function 1st inserts side section? I will only know if it's bad once I drive the car so will report back, probably from Austria.

The POR15 got some use today on a few rusty parts, I got the angle grinder out with the wire brush on it to clean up the chassis cross braces arms and gave them a thick coat of the stuff and while I had the tin open I also checked the underside of the car to coat anything that had a little surface rust to prevent issues in the future.

There were a couple of seams that were just starting to show signs so these got a coat and I cleaned up both driveshafts where the powdercoat had cracked off, worth looking at if the engine is ever out.

Jamesx19 · 23 May 2017

Great stuff Infasilver!

I'm fighting with the clutch hose at the moment. Given up on the brass union eventually..... thats another £100 added to the £90 for the hose, and £100 for the slave and master cylinders!!!!!!

Having spent more time underneath the car than actually driving it so far, I'm in awe of your spannering skills at dropping the engine and box. Gives me the confidence that I can tackle mine one day too if needed.

infrasilver · 23 May 2017

Jamesx19 said:
Great stuff Infasilver!

I'm fighting with the clutch hose at the moment. Given up on the brass union eventually..... thats another £100 added to the £90 for the hose, and £100 for the slave and master cylinders!!!!!!

Mine had a new clutch hose fitted before I bought the car and it has annoyed me that the last mechanic has run it over the top of the handbrake cable tube instead of underneath to fit into its clip, I just can't undo it to re-route it the correct way. :x

infrasilver · 28 May 2017

I've managed to eventually get the CAT back at last, took 10 days for the guys to do it and I had to stand with him whilst he removed the lambda, probably won't be going there again.
A few other jobs done and with a countdown to next Sundays road trip I have been busy getting it all back together but there is still a lot to do.

The POR15 paint is really good stuff and two coats of it on the suspension arms have really brought them up well, I'll be using it more often on other parts now.

The bellhousing bolt that snapped off is now drilled out but unfortunately I have had to go up to an M12 thread, I have also worked out why it is M10 and a socket headed bolt, the bellhousing is narrower here so a smaller head on the bolt was required, I have ordered an M12 socket head bolt to fit.

I have measured my current clutch plate thickness and comparing it with and old one I had in the garage I found the spare one had 0.7mm more meat left on it than the original so I swapped this over and I have now got the engine and box mated together again and I just need to lift it back into position.

I don't think I'll have the chance to repair the front caliper bleed nipple so this will be a job for when I get back.

infrasilver · 31 May 2017

Engine and box are now fitted and the gearbox and slave cylinder are also fitted. The slave wasn't too bad as this is normally a real pain in the A to fit, maybe I have a technique that work now.

I had some issues with locating a new silencer, I was promised one but this fell through, so I have just MIG welded the crack in the pipework up and refitted, it looks a mess as the metal didn't take too well but will do for the next month until I locate a new one and get the bypass mod done before fitting.

When fitting the gearbox I was struggling to get the new insert past the mount, this is usually an easy job but the thickness of the poly kept catching on the way up as I'd previously mentioned it seemed a little too thick. You can see it was catching.

I removed the insert and decided I wasn't going to wait to modify it and got started straight away as I would probably do this anyway at some point in the near future.

I have made the insert the same dimension as the original rubber mount to help install it and hopefully lose a little stiffness, I also separated the top insert section to give a little more give in the mount. I'm hoping this modification works out to be perfect, if not I'll take another part of the insert off.

And fitted, this time a lot easier, this photo made me realise I need to paint some POR15 on the mounts as they look a little shabby.

996 neglected, time for some love & maintenance

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