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Coffin arms

You only need a stable warm temperature for around 4 hours to avoid shrinkage as it cures from the inside out. After 24 hours the shore is stable. I will test my samples again but I am pretty sure they will remain unchanged. Would be great to get some feed back from anyone who does this mod as it transformed my 997.
It all started when I replaced both my rear arms on my 997 S as one inner bush had delaminated. The handling after replacing the arms with meyle was shocking especially under acceration mid corner and even in a straight line in 2nd and 3rd. Four wheel aligned 3 times and still the same. I then ordered a genuine arm and tested against two more brand new meyle arms and the middle bush was very different. The voids are there for comfort under load but on 2006 on 997 and cayman the bushes are solid but with a lower dura rating. This mod is very close to this later bush and deflection is about 1.7 mm less than the later bushing when subjected to 400kg side wards pressure. I tried 60 shore but it was 2-3 mm more deflection although this rating was great for my gearbox mount as the NVH is superb, I found the powerflex insert a little vibey. This makes great reading http://rennlist.com/forums/997-forum/440054-revisitng-the-annoying-2005-wiggle-bushing-issue.html My car is now completely cured of this trait.
 
Marky911 said:
996lee said:
sounds good as this actually is upgrading stuff rather that downgrading just with newer parts

so what bushes and balljoints are best?
Click to expand...

Hi Lee,
I maybe didn't word my post perfectly. Balljoints aren't serviceable so you basically need the ones in your existing arms to still be mint. If they aren't then you need new arms.
As long as ball joints are fine (as the ones in my donated arms were) then you just swap out the centre bush for a poly one and same for the inner ones.

My mate Craig who's also on here fitted everything then went for an alignment as the adjustable camber bushes are meant to be adjustable on the car. They simply aren't.
After much hassle and several spanners later (to be fair powerflex were as helpful as they could be) Craig gave up and bought Elephant racing arms which are a lovely bit of kit but not much change from about £700.

We then thought why not just set the bushes to max camber whilst off the car, fit the arms and then during alignment dial any unwanted camber out using the top mounts.
That's what we done on my car and it's fine. Mind you I'm running 2 degrees negative so didn't see how low I could have gone. I'd never want less than 1.5 degrees on anyway.

So be mindful of that lot anyone who's thinking of the powerflex adjustable bushes.

Now they're on I'm very happy and wouldn't want them any stiffer I doubt, so whilst all this testing and filling voids is interesting, I would never have the time or inclination to go that far. Good reading though.

:thumb:
Click to expand...

much appreciated i was confused on the ball joint piece as i was convinced id seen ball joints sold seperatly but obvioulsy that not the case :thumb:
i've sent a booking request to COG so will see what their health check recommends and prepare for a big hit
as im pretty sure it'll need coffin arms , top mounts and new bump stops at a minimum
 
No probs Lee, Centre gravity may correct me but I've never seen a balljoint option.
That's the joy with the elephant racing ones. Fully serviceable. Not cheap though.
 
I decided to take the arms off my car to do this, easier than messing around in the air. Due to not even having fitted the wheels since the arms went on it only took me around an hour to get all four off :)

From looking at the arms it appears to me that the neatest way would be to leave the gaps in between the tops and bottoms of the voids, fill the top halves, then when set flip them over and do the other side. Any reason why not to do this?

MC
 
Afternoon MisterCorn,

Thats what I've just done. The rubber cures very quickly with the arm sat on a radiator at home. 1 hour, then flip it over and fill the bottom voids.

Top tip though.... As Nordicmatter says, the mix is done by weight. Invest £4 in a set of digital scales from eBay. I was mixing 20 grams part A and 20 grams part B. which is plenty for the top half of 2x arms. Its impossible to get that accurate enough even with sensitive analogue scales.

The result is the hardness matches the sample rubber I got, exactly.

I've done and fitted 2 arms now,Though like you, I've removed the Front arms I had already fitted to do this on the bench. Much easier.

Cheers James
 
Thanks, I might have a play at it tonight, I have a set of scales which I use for weighing coins. 50g range with 0.01g resolution, so I'll use those.

MC
 
I did these last night.

Voids in the arms cleaned with IPA and left to dry. 21.7g or part A and part B ready to go:



Mixed up using the traditional tools of a screwdriver and rattle can lid:



Then in to a clean syringe to apply it:



Job done, within an hour they were set:



Flipped them over and did the other side too, I will leave them in the airing cupboard until tomorrow then they can go back on the car.

There was a disk of material left after each application which was easily removed from the rattle can lid afterwards, hardness is consistent between both lots.

MC
 
Big thanks to Nordicmatter & Mistercorn for sharing, mine will be getting the polytek treatment!
 
Nordicmatter, very interesting.

How did you manage to do your gearbox mount with 60 shore, going from memory the mount is vertical so I imagine the liquid rubber would flow out as it cures.

Did you remove the mount (how easy is that?), remove the gearbox (I won't be doing that!) or do you have a trick to do it in-situ?

Many thanks, looking forward to MC & Jamesx19 feedback on the coffin arms, get out there and do some driving!
 
Any further information on this little experiment? 😃
 
I had my geo done on Friday when it was pi55ing it down and only drove the car back to the office. I will be driving it more from tomorrow.

MC
 
For anyone replicating the above...

I have found that just filling the upper and lower voids separately is no good as the rubber just pushes out with the loads on the bush.

Remove the thin rubber membrane, so you can see through the bush void, and fill as per Mark's (Nordicmatter) direction. This way the rubber seems to resist being pushed out of the bush voids.

Cheers James
 
nordicmatter said:
The voids are there for comfort under load but on 2006 on 997 and cayman the bushes are solid but with a lower dura rating.
Click to expand...

Is this the only difference between the very early 9x7 rear arm (ie the one shared with the 9x6) and the 2006-on arm?

Will either arm fit a given car?
 
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