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Retrofitting PSE Switch

DucatiRob said:
jpsh120 said:
ash005 said:
I was wondering, could the electronics bit of this be done on a car with factory pse to make it on or off?

cheers

Think you will have to explain what you mean, the factory set up already has a button that turns it on/off??

No reason why you could not fit this in place of the PSE electronics that operate the valves from the button.

I think the benefit of this is that you can opt to have the exhaust valves permanently on or off, not sure if the standard PSE can be coded to operate in this way though!

That's what I was wondering

As it is now, I press the button then the car opens and shuts it, I would like to have it on or off

Ash .
 
ash005 said:
DucatiRob said:
jpsh120 said:
ash005 said:
I was wondering, could the electronics bit of this be done on a car with factory pse to make it on or off?

cheers

Think you will have to explain what you mean, the factory set up already has a button that turns it on/off??

No reason why you could not fit this in place of the PSE electronics that operate the valves from the button.

I think the benefit of this is that you can opt to have the exhaust valves permanently on or off, not sure if the standard PSE can be coded to operate in this way though!

That's what I was wondering

As it is now, I press the button then the car opens and shuts it, I would like to have it on or off

Ash .

It might be worth checking if it can be coded to do what you want, if not then this will do the trick!
 
Rob , this sounds like a great fix for those with PSE as the cargraphic mod keeps them open but they cant be closed , the PSE does its own thing , this would give total control . :thumb: :grin:
 
interesting, i looked into this previously and read it was a mixture of vacuums and complex electronics that you couldn't override, would be good if you could
 
I wasn't aware of the Cargraphics unit, just had a look, not cheap :eek:

If disconnecting the wires from the PSE switch doesn't throw any error messages then I don't see any reason this mod can't be fitted easily, plus if you have the PSE switch anyway it's a cheap mod for less than £15! Plus you alway have the option of reverting back to standard easily too :thumb:
 
Easy way to check would be to just unplug the pse valve and see if you get any messages / errors .

This will simulate replaceing it with Robs setup .

Im of the opinion that you will get no messages or even fault codes as im fairly sure its a dumb system ( not a system thats monitored ).
 
After a little research, the standard PSE system controls the valves so that they are open at idle, then close as revs rise and then open again at around 3500 rpm. The valves are obviously controlled from the ECU so it's a question of whether unplugging the solenoid throws some sort of error, probably not according to Dermot.

One thing I am not sure of is whether there is a dash indicator when PSE is manually activated, just like there is when you activate PASM?

If there is, and you wanted to retain this feature then the wiring would be a little more complicated, you would need to find the control unit or relay for the PSE! I would imagine that the ECU would perform the same function as my latching relay circuit, performing the switching in auto mode with the manual override to turn it off completely I guess?

Is the button LED lit in normal mode, or is it activated when you turn the PSE off?
 
You lost me at, "This is something...."

:dont know:
 
Bonners1 said:
You lost me at, "This is something...."

:dont know:

Think I lost myself too :eek:

Think I'm just trying to say this can be fitted to PSE cars too, just maybe a bit more wiring if there is a dash indicator!
 
Theres no dash indicator that ive ever seen .. but i dont know everything nor do i own a 997 :p

Imho your system would be a direct replacement with no faults listed .



It might help people if you could explain how you made the voltage reducer .. i see that as the only sticking point in what is a very good idear and post .

.. i think a lot of people will be wanting this :)


EDIT .. i actually think if you could do this as a kit then people would buy it .
 
Demort said:
Theres no dash indicator that ive ever seen .. but i dont know everything nor do i own a 997 :p

Imho your system would be a direct replacement with no faults listed .



It might help people if you could explain how you made the voltage reducer .. i see that as the only sticking point in what is a very good idear and post .

.. i think a lot of people will be wanting this :)


EDIT .. i actually think if you could do this as a kit then people would buy it .


Like the idea of that Dermot :thumb:

Let me see :?: .. £23 for the parts excluding the switch, plus an hour of hard laour and some Porsche tax... about £600 please.. place your orders here :thumbs:

Yes, the voltage divider.. I found a pic I took but it doesn't show the connections so I have added a few lines so hopefully it is clear.

SAM_5040_copy.jpg


The red wire is the 12v input, the black wire goes to ground and the red/black wire is the 4v output! Note.. the two resistors wired in parallel can be swapped for a single resistor half the value of the first resistor, I just didn't have resistors of the right value in the pack I bought from Maplin. The size of the resistor is not important, it's the relative value that matters.

I think these are 110 ohm - 3 watt resistors. Two 110 ohm resistors wired in parallel give a total resistance of 55 ohm. 3 watt resistors are a decent size so no chance of overheating.

Hope this helps!
 
I humbly added your info to the picture , hopefully thats ok , people tend to skip text ;)

i think the resistors are 160 ohms .. Brown , blue brown .. checked it here but im no electronics expert , i just fault find 12v systems ...

http://www.hobby-hour.com/electronics/resistorcalculator.php

Its an easy enough job to do and i think its very professional to be honest ..

But if anyone wants this and is not confident at doing it themselves then print Robs instructions and take it too your local garage , they should have no problem fitting it for you .

Im not sure how posts are added to the Faq section .. but this gets my vote for being put there .. ive bookmarked it just in case any customer wants it :)
 

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Demort said:
I humbly added your info to the picture , hopefully thats ok , people tend to skip text ;)

i think the resistors are 160 ohms .. Brown , blue brown .. checked it here but im no electronics expert , i just fault find 12v systems ...

http://www.hobby-hour.com/electronics/resistorcalculator.php

Its an easy enough job to do and i think its very professional to be honest ..

But if anyone wants this and is not confident at doing it themselves then print Robs instructions and take it too your local garage , they should have no problem fitting it for you .

Im not sure how posts are added to the Faq section .. but this gets my vote for being put there .. ive bookmarked it just in case any customer wants it :)

Thank you Dermot.. yes bang on with your added info to the picture, much clearer :thumb:

I'm sure you're right on the resistor size too, the value isn't important just the ratio!
 
PSE switch retrofit on 997.2

Many thanks to DucatiRob for coming up with this concept. The previous owner of my MY2010 997.2 had the OEM PSE retrofitted but without the switching mechanism. After I installed the H&S back box bypass, I decided to install the PSE switch as it was then very loud on start-up with no means of turning it off (the neighbours probably helped me to come to this conclusion!) . I initially bought the Carnewal remote kit but after having seen this post, reverted to this approach.

Have now done the upgrade in a similar way as DucatiRob has suggested with a number of amendments which may be of interest to any others planning to do the same mod on their 997.2 (his car is a 997.1)

a) I installed the latching relay and the resistive divider together in a small plastic box, with the resistors strapped across the relevant terminals on the relay

b) I then installed the latching relay under the PCM in the front console on top of the Nav processor (?) which meant that wiring to the switch panel (PSE switch output and PSE LED) was simple. Similarly sourced the 12V for the relay from Pin 3 of a suitable relay in the front relay panel under the drivers side dash.

c) this meant that the only cable required to the engine bay was for the PSE solenoid. I ran this cable through the centre console, under the carpet in between the rear seats (you need to pull up hard to lift this!) and to the rear shelf where the DME is installed and from there through a grommet under the DME to the engine (finding this was a god send!).

This solution now looks totally OEM but with the PSE either ON or OFF as per the switch setting without the DME interfering on a rev dependent basis.

Very pleased with the result but it's 12 hours of my life that I will never get back. Of course if (God forbid) I had to do it again, I could do it in half the time, so hopefully these few tips will help anyone planning the same process on their 997.2
 

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