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Diagnostic Help - No Electrics (at All)

Brian, did you try the spare clock? That was my original which I swapped out when trying to find an electrical fault on mine (ABS light) but it made no difference therefore it wasn't the clock in my case. I'd also be surprised if the clock was the fault with yours.

My own 2p is that it's likely to be related to cables at the starter motor because the issue as you describe it occurs at the point of trying to start the car. The connections at the SM can get very corroded. IIRC there is a big earth strap that goes to body behind the start motor which is also highly exposed to corrosion. Maybe it's even the starter itself that is causing the issue.
 
Steve - I've not tried the spare clock as I can't replicate the fault at the moment. So whether by fiddling at the battery end I've sorted it/ I'm going to tackle the connections to the starter next and see what they look like. I'm also looking to task someone to do the PCB 'refresh' to my current clock just to rule out any dry joints etc. but as I've said once the car is running its no problem, no weird lights etc.
 
Once the car is running the alternator takes over and the battery is pretty much redundent .. ive got my fingers crossed that you have moved something and the fault has gone.

As you say though .. starter connections next :)
 
Have you got this sorted yet Brian (can I call you Brian)? Only a week and a half to go, until the road trip. :cheers:
 
Millomboy said:
Have you got this sorted yet Brian (can I call you Brian)? Only a week and a half to go, until the road trip. :cheers:

Well it's not come back so sorting at the battery end may have fixed it. I'm going to run it over to my Indy next week to have a look/clean around the starter connections just to make sure.

Plus I've got a retired electronic engineer on standby to check the pcb on the clock, but speaking to him he is very doubtful the dry joints on the back for the clock pcb would cause a total loss of electrical power given its only milliamps that pass through the circuits :dont know:

:hand: If anyone is behind me on the EuroTunnel train and I dont immediately move off just give me 10mins to swap out the clock :what:
 
Good luck with it. See you in 10 days.
 
Waz said:
Just because the earth strap is tight to the body doesn't mean it's a good connection !
Undo it clean it de-rust it and reapply, do the same at both poles on the battery,
If you don't believe me ask Infrasilver, his was the Same, whilst on tour :thumb:

Edit to check it next time it fails attach a jump lead between - and a good earth

Yep, as above, I was just going to say that, mine died on the trip of 2013 and I had no electrics at all, totally dead. My earth connector was tight onto the bulkhead and not corroded but inside the sheathing of the cable the copper had rotted and gone green and there was only the sheathing holding it together, I made a temp connection to get me going but it was feeling down on power all the way back to the hotel where I did a better fix and it ran fine for the rest of the trip. I bought a new battery earth lead when I got back to the UK.
 
Chums

Just to close this thread off since I changed the battery and more specifically the battery earth strap so far, and after 1,700 miles through Europe, I've not had a repeat of the problem :thumb:

So if your 964/993 earth strap looks like this - get a new one:

L1010864_zpsjvei5jeb.jpg


Only when you 'uncoil' it will you see the corrosion :what:

L1010866_zps5rjukufp.jpg
 
Glad you sorted before the trip, I forgot to ask you about it.

It would be worth checking the earth strap on any car older than 12 ish years old and replacing them anyway as a matter of course especially for what they cost.

The same issue let me down alone in Austria until everyone came to my rescue.

I took a nice picture whilst I was waiting though.

 
No Electronics

You guys rock. This exact same thing happened to me on the way home after blowing out a rear tire= suddenly everything went dead when the tow truck arrived- no joy whatsoever. Zero power to anything- read through this thread- replaced my negative cable- and perfect performance back with new shoes all around. Thank you! Saved me another tow to my specialist and probably several hundred in diagnostics. Fixed for $6 US!
 

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