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Suspension geometry and setup - DIY?

Chris_in_the_UK

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Joined
19 Mar 2014
Messages
3,595
Ok folks, time for some discussion and an opportunity for some DIY.

Traditionally we (mostly) all know that to get the geometry set on our cars requires lasers, gauges, smoke/mirrors and throwing money at somebody - right?

Well, that is one way of doing it and it works for most and were are some great outfits around who will do the business to a high standard. Following my suspension refurb I decided to see if (realistically) this could be done by a competent DIY person (me).

So after a few weeks of research and speaking to people it is clear that it is possible and the level of accuracy is significant (some have suggested F1 standards of accuracy).

So, this weekend is the time to put my ramblings into practice - I will (of course) post pictures and some narrative of the process.......
 
I used to line my little race car up with axle stands and string :)
 
I did my Lola T70 with a friend using a site laser leveller, thin shim pads and blocks, string, a long straight edge and pen and paper :)
It did take us a full weekend and a lot of trial and error but diy is doable if you have time and patience. It might not be perfect or as easy as using modern alignment tackle but the principles are the same.
If you are doing it right you should corner weight with a driver weight on board etc but that's another story lol
 
I can see toe and thrust , and i like the Lazer replacement .. camber and castor ? castor as it cant be adjusted on the sport cars ok but camber ?

Im used to adjusting camber first then toe as one upsets the other.

Your going to use string on a jig ? wood frame i guess parallel to each other and measure distance to tyres at the point to get your measurements .. i cant actually fault it so far as you have made a home made tracking gauge setup thats a dam site cheaper than the ones ive seen !

Pretty impressive , but from the short time i have been here something i would expect from you :)

The web site is pretty good though is it yours ? as its not obvious from the front page that this is hidden in its depths



Edit
Got to admit ive not herd of this before .. im impressed as i thought only garages with the equipment could do this.
 
Basic kit.....

4 x axle stands

2 x 2m brand new aluminium scaffold poles.

Elastic straps

Steel ruler

Spirit level

Digital angle gauge

Sharpie, parachute cord, alloy box section.

Wooden blocks

Cut up old number plates

Patience and determination!
 
I need pictures and details man , dont post just get on with it lol ..

Btw im going to be printing this all out and takeing to work when finished .. no pressure ;)
 
Demort said:
I need pictures and details man , dont post just get on with it lol ..

Btw im going to be printing this all out and takeing to work when finished .. no pressure ;)

Of course :thumbs:

I will give some detailed narrative with pictures and why I did what I did.

No pressure....... :floor:
 
I remember doing this with my Dad, using a pair of 8ft flourescent tubes and a tape measure. Got the job done.

MC
 
Well done for doing this Chris and I look forward to the details.
 
Just a thought .. if you had a vertical pole with a level on top to make sure its perfectly 90 degrees to the ground , you could place it against the tyre and measure the distance between say the top of the tyre ( middle of the sidewall ) to the bar , you would have say 3mm difference gap when pole is touching the base of the tyre ..
That would give you a negative camber of 0.17

a gap at the bottom would give you a positive camber

Theres conversion charts that will change mill to degrees .. would that not give you a pretty acurate camber reading ?

You could use the same pole to give you a castor reading if aligned with the centre of the top strut.

just a thought .. and its been a long day :)
 
Demort said:
Just a thought .. if you had a vertical pole with a level on top to make sure its perfectly 90 degrees to the ground , you could place it against the tyre and measure the distance between say the top of the tyre ( middle of the sidewall ) to the bar , you would have say 3mm difference gap when pole is touching the base of the tyre ..
That would give you a negative camber of 0.17

a gap at the bottom would give you a positive camber

Theres conversion charts that will change mill to degrees .. would that not give you a pretty acurate camber reading ?

just a thought .. and its been a long day :)

It would.

There are digital angle gauges with built in spirit levels around for not much money as well (which I have just bought!).

The PITA is that at the rear the relationship between camber and toe is pretty significant and adjusting one changes the other - more on this later!.
 
I agree , but is not the purpose to spend as little money on equipment as possible :D

Enough now .. too tired , ill catch up tomorrow .. loveing it so far though.
 

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