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Ticking over like a bag o' spanners - Fixed

Excessive oil in my 997.1 inlet manifold was indicative of aos that let go.
 
Is it lumpy as a cement mixer?

I had similar symptoms but mine was vario cam solenoid.
 
No not that bad. Just when it's right up at temp, tickover is about 600rpm and fluctuating (bad enough to make the clutch thrust-bearing rattle slightly though).
 
alex yates said:
No not that bad. Just when it's right up at temp, tickover is about 600rpm and fluctuating (bad enough to make the clutch thrust-bearing rattle slightly though).
Click to expand...


Yup exactly same as mine by sound of it.
I will know if new solenoids have cured it shortly.

Putting aircon on raises the rpm and makes symptoms improve?
 
Yeah, but I'd have expected that anyway cos it raises it when it's running fine.
 
No not yet. I've not had much chance to look at it apart from spray some easystart round the throttle body, plenum and intake manifolds and no joy.

Went to Wales for the weekend so didn't get chance this weekend.
 
Update: So after stripping all my inlet stuff down, cleaning (including throttle body and MAF) and putting back together, spraying all the top end with easy start around any potential leak points, checking as many vac pipes as I can, removing all my coil packs and checking for any that looked jiggered, the problem still persisted.

In fact it did start to get worse whereby on the odd occasion, if I went for a drive (up to full running temp), then parked up for 20 minutes, when restarting it would conk out. It's as though it can't control tick-over. The problem seemed to be worse after either a very long run (over an hour) or a spirited blast after it was at full temp.

So on Wednesday I put it up on the ramps and had a poke round the variocam solenoids (thanks systemmeister), with the intention of making sure there were no broken wires or anything else untoward. I thought I'd have a do at disconnecting each solenoid independently and see if it had any effect (ie. if it did, then it was fine). Anyhow, after going for the easy nearside one 1st I couldn't get the plug apart and after a bit of tugging and pulling thought best if I left it (knowing my luck I'd snap the cable).

No explanation but I've been out in the car 3 times since (one of them giving it quite a blast) and it seems to be ticking over just fine.

Jury's still out but the car is definitely behaving better :dont know:

The weather has been a lot warmer here the last couple of days (above 20c :yahoo: ) so don't know whether that would have an effect?????

Pass :?
 
I think the nearside one was jeffed on mine. Seized in the extended position.
Due to the asymmetry of the heads, this on is mounted at the end facing the rear wheel - receiving maximum exposure to weather and salt / crud.

I did find one earth wire broken (going to ring terminal near the solenoid plug parking bracket) - due to degradation of the conductor and possible annealing due to vibration).
So, I cut the ring off and stripped wires back / remade it.

I still have no idea what item the earth was serving.

Worth trying diagnostics on the car - see if any faults?

My cheap i960 code reader did pick up the solenoid fault on mine, in addition to the dealer when they plugged it in.
 
My code reader hasn't picked anything up but it is a cheapo crap thing. Next time I'm down at my mechanics, I'll get him to bob his reader in and see what it says.
 
Car's still not right so whilst visiting my local wizard of a mechanic tonight, I ask him to bung his gizmo in and see if any codes chuck up. Nothing at all!
So he has a look at the live data whilst the engine is running - ticking over at 648rpm and the thrust bearing is making a rattling like a prince albert in a urinal.
If the ecu knows it's not ticking over high enough why doesn't it just turn the revs up a bit?
Beyond me??
So anyway, he suggests I try bunging a bottle of injection cleaner in as I might have a slight blockage in one of the injectors causing it to run a bit lean on tick-over. Gonna give it a whirl but I'm not convinced.
 
How old are your coil packs and sparks?

Might you have a loose plug?

Does engine note change when you remove oil dipstick or oil filler cap?

Is your AOS in good order?

Lastly how about MAF?
 
Coils packs look in reasonable condition with no cracks.

Plugs were new last April.

Slight change of revs for a couple of seconds with filer cap removed.

Not a large vac on filler tube when running.

Don't know about condition of AOS but car doesn't use much oil.

Cleaned MAF last month.


:dont know:
 
alex yates said:
Don't know about condition of AOS but car doesn't use much oil.
Click to expand...

Not inconclusive but to check if the AOS is kaputt take the intake pipe off and open the throttle to check for any oil residue beyond the throttle body - the pipe from the AOS joins just beyond the TB. SInce you cleaned it you might see any new residue?

Also check the condition of the bellows where the AOS connects to the crankcase (easier to see with the NSR wheel removed). As I say I had idle issues and mine was split - replacing made a massive improvement.

My MAF was dated 2004 ('99 car) so I changed it and did improve the idle a little more, but made quite a difference higher up the rev range. I got a genuine BOSCH OE MAF from Poland at a third of the Porsche price.
 
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