It's that ticking noise....

[Private Pike]

1996 C2 993

186000km

Cold start heard the ticking sound for the first time on warm up, drove the vehicle, oil pressure ok between 4 and 5 but then subsided to 3 on drive to garage slowly, oil temperature fluctuated slightly going up (3rd to 4th bar) and then down within a couple of minutes then no movement as per normal on a normal drive, something I'd never witnessed before (jumped up and then down)

So I believe it is the oil lifters after investigating, no doubt 1 or two have collapsed or maybe a few stuck (I doubt)

I had just topped up the oil, and in June will be 2 years from the last service covering 7000 km

Would it be wise to drop the oil and look for old lifter seals, will they be seen in the oil ?

Any help on doing this fix or experienced mechanics may well say let Porshe or Independent do it ??,

I have access to a lift so could drop the engine or I've heard in can be done on the lift working underneath

Main concerning is get the timing position correct, will look to replace chain and tensioners at the same time

Would appreciate a cost on this oil lifters, timing chain and tensioners replaced

Any other help or advice very much appreciated

Personally feel it's a trip to the garage an invoice showing the work done for future sale confidence to the buyer...... thoughts ?

 

[Gwsinc]

I did my hydraulic lifters, almost all their seals were gone at less than 65,000 miles. Easily done with exhaust boxes off, and air box/aux fan removed on my non-vario, you may have to remove vario unit on yours (not sure). Chains do need the engine to come out or at least be dropped a few inches, but I've never done this, I'd say try the lifters first as this may well solve your issue and cost a fraction of removing the engine.

As the lifters are hydraulic there is no risk of messing with the timing. Cam covers come off, rockers off one by one, pop old lifter out and new one in. Rocker back on and torque to spec (can't remember exact spec but can find it if required - I remember it was surprisingly low), engine turned by hand between each lifter so lifter isnt under load.

This was the first time I'd done any internal engine work so was fairly nerve wracking.

There is a small 'hat' on each lifter that allows a degree of movement so the lifter makes contact with the valve stem in a flat surface. 11 of mine went in perfectly but my last one went in with this 'hat' on its edge rather than flat surface. Result was a click that wouldn't go away and a destroyed new lifter but thankfully no damage to the valve or anything else - other than the clicking, the effect was that of a collapsed lifter, I got away with it.

Another new lifter fixed this with no ill effects, but in the interim I'd be lying if I said I wasn't hurriedly doing man maths and looking up how much I could sell a kidney for to pay for an engine rebuild...

So yes it can be DIY'd but just triple check everything. Or an independent should be able to do it in a few hours. Good opportunity to replace cam covers and seals too. Lots of posts on this topic over on rennlist so check those out.

Engine seems happier with the new lifters, especially at higher revs.

Edit: think I paid £30 a lifter, also it's possible but unlikely you will find seal remnants in oil IMO.

 

[Private Pike]

Thanks for the reply, appreciated the advice given