OK, COV redux ...
There are 8 COVs on my C4S:
#1 air cleaner flap (don't know what this does)
#2 sound symposer (I think that's the one deMort is referring to)
#3 heater shut-off (if this fails you will have no cabin heat)
#4 sports exhaust
#5 engine coolant bypass (helps the engine heat up faster, so improves fuel consumption)
#6 tuning flap (no idea)
#7 gear box heating/cooling
#8 PDK clutch heating/cooling
Locations:
#1 & #2 are on the air box
#3 is to the right of the engine near the body at the back
#4,#5  are under the ECU towards the front of the car
#7 & #8 are on the transmission under the car
The ones that failed on my car:
#1 - no effect, I just found it was dead when checking them all
#3 - no cabin heating. This was the first to fail and it was right in the middle to the Beast from the East cold snap a few years ago. I froze for about a week.
#5 - really wierd. It seemed it was stuck half open and half closed. The effect was that the water temperature kept shooting up to 110+ (normally it's glued to 90) and then down to 85 on a random basis.
#8 - intermittent. No obvious effect apart from throwing a fault. I'd clear the fault and I'd be ok for a few trips, then would fault again. Then it would be ok again for a bit. Finally nailed this one a few weeks ago.
Ease of fixing/access:
#1 &2 - easy, though I found it easier to loosen the airbox so I could get at the retaining tabs
#3 -fairly easy, but more difficult than #1 & #2
#4,#5,#6 - difficult to get at. I found the best way was to remove the ECU (engine control unit, straightforward, but dont touch the pins), then I could get at them quite simply. I replaced all three, even though only one was faulty because I didn't want to pull the ECU again.
#7 - pretty easy
#8 - Porsche (in the w'shop manual) show a nice easy way of removing COVs. You simply press on the retaining tab with a screwdriver and off it comes. If only. Most COVs are not in a position when you can do it that easily and I seem to have required a good bit of futzing around before getting most COVs free. #8 is, however, in a class of its own. The tab that you are supposed to press with a screwdriver is hidden behind a lump of metal, a.k.a 'the axle'. I tried for about 4 hours on my back to get at the tab with no luck. So I had a think, and after a bit came up with this (I'll go through the whole thing)
1) remove rear underbody tray
2) there are two flexible pipes which are in the way of getting at the connector and fresh air supply to COV #8. Unclip these from the dual hose plastic clip and pull the clip off it's retaining bracket. Tuck the hoses out of the way and you've now got clear access to the connector and air line. Undo these (dont ping the retaining clip off the connector - they can be difficult to find if they shoot off: I lost one in the engine and it me ages to find it).
3) remove the vacuum line and actuator lines at the other end of the COV. I used a long bladed screwdriver to work these off.
4) Now, the COV is attached to a thin metal plate. Bend this - it bends easily - a little way out towards the wheel, so that you have a small workspace between the COV and the transmission. Find a small penknife - I used a 3" one, and set the small 1" blade at right angles, so you now have a right-angled thin bladed tool. At the back of the COV, slip the blade between the COV plastic clip near the retaining tang and the thin metal plate. Rotate gently to move the plastic clip away from the metal plate and the tang will come out and the COV released. The COV can now be pulled out easily. Mine came out like it was greased. Extremely simple. In all, the whole procedure took about two minutes! Less time than to describe it in fact. And after 4 hours going at the thing, I was more than a bit relieved.
Finally, I'll just say that I'm not a professional mechanic and I'm sure that someone who does this sort of stuff on a regular basis would find it a lot easier than I do! Still, I've quite enjoyed tracking the faults down - even though it didn't seem so much fun at times.